Cool tool pics! 8) 8) 8) Thanks! More to come, I hope.
Now, about that Hooters trip........
WHERE'S DA PICS?????
Mike
Now, about that Hooters trip........
WHERE'S DA PICS?????
Mike
something different
- Thread starter seedtick
- Start date
Thanks Tick,
When I was a young kid my older sister and I used a crosscut say to cut up firewood. I was so young bout all I could do was pull the saw back so she could grt another good bite. Mite say I was just her return spring. Love the hand adzes and draw knifes. And don't forget the planes. Pick me up a froe many years ago and cut a young Hickroy off even to the ground and made a mallet. Had that mallet for about 15 years and ain't beat the bark all the way off yet. Thanks for the pictures.
Bob
When I was a young kid my older sister and I used a crosscut say to cut up firewood. I was so young bout all I could do was pull the saw back so she could grt another good bite. Mite say I was just her return spring. Love the hand adzes and draw knifes. And don't forget the planes. Pick me up a froe many years ago and cut a young Hickroy off even to the ground and made a mallet. Had that mallet for about 15 years and ain't beat the bark all the way off yet. Thanks for the pictures.
Bob
Cut out and installed the transom this morning, spent the rest of the day cutting out ribs
here's the overall shot, some of the clamps starting to come off
and here's a tool shot of a variety of hatchets
here's the overall shot, some of the clamps starting to come off
and here's a tool shot of a variety of hatchets
Seedtick,
Now about the truck. 57 Chevy is a bit too expensive for me to drive, much less Jimmy. But thanks for the offer. NEXT. :wink:
Bob
Now about the truck. 57 Chevy is a bit too expensive for me to drive, much less Jimmy. But thanks for the offer. NEXT. :wink:
Bob
In the image below I see the 2x4s clamped on at the stern. I assume that to provide a straight mating edge for the transom. Correct?
Not really, the sides of the transom are compound angles- miter and bevel cuts that are made after the sides are brought together. Precutting then trying to bring the sides together to match the last degree or so is way more difficult than just getting pretty close and then measuring for the miter and bevel.
Even without the 2 X 4's, the curvature of the sides is gentle enough that the 1 1/4" or so thickness of the transom is pretty easy to match up.
The real reason for the 2 X 4's is to reduce the curvature of the sides from about the 6th rib to the transom. It's a design element that the boat builder we learned from used. I don't know if there's some theoretical water shedding advantage to doing it this way or if it was just more pleasing to the eye.
Even without the 2 X 4's, the curvature of the sides is gentle enough that the 1 1/4" or so thickness of the transom is pretty easy to match up.
The real reason for the 2 X 4's is to reduce the curvature of the sides from about the 6th rib to the transom. It's a design element that the boat builder we learned from used. I don't know if there's some theoretical water shedding advantage to doing it this way or if it was just more pleasing to the eye.
The 2x4 placed in the manner actually fills out the centerpoint [CE] of your loading and tweaks the stability in a plus column. my. 0000000002 worth
Today and the next several days will be "rib" days, so we'll be doing the same thing and won't be posting.
Anyway as I said yesterday, cut youself out a mess of side ribs, plus some extra ones incase there's a couple you don't like
Next you cut the bottom ribs - fitting ribs is one the most asked questions as some folks find it intimidating. If I give you a pattern, you have a rib that will fit in one place. If I show you how to fit ribs, you can put ribs anyplace. Kind of like giving you a fish vs. teaching you how to fish. This is the way we do it, and it's not the only way
First cut yourself a piece of bottom rib stock about 4 inches longer than the width of the boat where it's going to be installed. Center it at the ribs marks and draw a line underneath following the sides.
Now turn the rib over and rotate it 180 degrees, mark the rib number and the direction to the front of the boat.
This is the way the will sit when it's installed, notice that your lines follow the angle of the sides. Now slide the rib to one side so you draw the angle of the side onto the the side of the rib. Repeat for the other side.
The edge of the rib has the needed bevel, so tilt the tablesaw to match that bevel.
The lines you transferred to the side of the rib is your miter cut.
Cut a little wide of the line so you can go back and make adjustments, if necessary. But keep the correct bevel on the table saw as you will need to match that to the bevel on the side ribs.
Trim off the bottom of the side ribs to match the bottom of the bottom rib. I've just shown one for illustration.
In this pic I've just clamped them together to show you how they fit to the side of the boat, We will eventually nail and glue the side and bottom ribs together and nail and glue them into the boat.
that's enough for today, i'll post again when we finish the ribs.
Anyway as I said yesterday, cut youself out a mess of side ribs, plus some extra ones incase there's a couple you don't like
Next you cut the bottom ribs - fitting ribs is one the most asked questions as some folks find it intimidating. If I give you a pattern, you have a rib that will fit in one place. If I show you how to fit ribs, you can put ribs anyplace. Kind of like giving you a fish vs. teaching you how to fish. This is the way we do it, and it's not the only way
First cut yourself a piece of bottom rib stock about 4 inches longer than the width of the boat where it's going to be installed. Center it at the ribs marks and draw a line underneath following the sides.
Now turn the rib over and rotate it 180 degrees, mark the rib number and the direction to the front of the boat.
This is the way the will sit when it's installed, notice that your lines follow the angle of the sides. Now slide the rib to one side so you draw the angle of the side onto the the side of the rib. Repeat for the other side.
The edge of the rib has the needed bevel, so tilt the tablesaw to match that bevel.
The lines you transferred to the side of the rib is your miter cut.
Cut a little wide of the line so you can go back and make adjustments, if necessary. But keep the correct bevel on the table saw as you will need to match that to the bevel on the side ribs.
Trim off the bottom of the side ribs to match the bottom of the bottom rib. I've just shown one for illustration.
In this pic I've just clamped them together to show you how they fit to the side of the boat, We will eventually nail and glue the side and bottom ribs together and nail and glue them into the boat.
that's enough for today, i'll post again when we finish the ribs.
Know you're busy with the ribs. . .just wanted to check in and see how things were goin'. . . :?:
Got all the ribs in, waiting for epoxy to dry
Tomorrow we'll pack up the road show for a seminar at a middle school around here on the evolution of the pirogue, from dugout to plank, to plywood. Tools, designs, etc. Having a little bit of knowledge and insight isn't much fun if you don't share it, plus it gives us a chance to run our mouth to a new audience
may post pics by Friday or Monday
Tomorrow we'll pack up the road show for a seminar at a middle school around here on the evolution of the pirogue, from dugout to plank, to plywood. Tools, designs, etc. Having a little bit of knowledge and insight isn't much fun if you don't share it, plus it gives us a chance to run our mouth to a new audience
may post pics by Friday or Monday
seedtick said:Got all the ribs in, waiting for epoxy to dry
Tomorrow we'll pack up the road show for a seminar at a middle school around here on the evolution of the pirogue, from dugout to plank, to plywood. Tools, designs, etc. Having a little bit of knowledge and insight isn't much fun if you don't share it, plus it gives us a chance to run our mouth to a new audience
may post pics by Friday or Monday
Aww...man. I'm jealous! Makes me wish I was in middle school again. :mrgreen:
Seedtick, Is it the angle of that particular shot? Or is that boat really that swaybacked? I'm curious why so? I know it's for a performance characteristic, probably ability to turn on itself? But, I'm trying to imagine the circumstances where that is so valuable? Educate me here, Seedtick?
yes it's got a lot of rocker
it's a wide boat compared to a pirogue and needs to be able to turn on a dime to navigate the swamps and waterways
it's a wide boat compared to a pirogue and needs to be able to turn on a dime to navigate the swamps and waterways
Maybe the high front is so that you could row up onto shore far enough so that your shoes didn't get too muddy gettin in and out.
Jack, the square ended bateaus around here had the same rake. Easier to get out when you run it up on the bank. Just step out on dry ground. With a good running start, you can climb halfway over a submerged log and if you don't happen to clear it, you can stand on the deck and the stern will come over the log with a little wigglin'.