What Works / What Don't
- Thread starter beekeeper
- Start date
Found this info about the grapite subject:
http://tomangelakis.tripod.com/graphite_bottom.htm
beekeeper
http://tomangelakis.tripod.com/graphite_bottom.htm
beekeeper
This guy seems to see a harder mix with graphite than straight epoxy too. Same as my experience.beekeeper said:
Jack
You need to go back and re read that article. I says that the hardness comes from the silica not the graphite.
I have been doing a bunch of playing after our conversations on here and graphite and epoxy really sands easier than the straight epoxy ,My opion is the graphite is softer because of the mix,it is definitely slicker when sanded to a grey finish.
Ron
You need to go back and re read that article. I says that the hardness comes from the silica not the graphite.
I have been doing a bunch of playing after our conversations on here and graphite and epoxy really sands easier than the straight epoxy ,My opion is the graphite is softer because of the mix,it is definitely slicker when sanded to a grey finish.
Ron
don't confuse the hollow glass (silica) balloons with the solid glass (silica) spheres
the balloons are used in fairing compounds and are easy to sand because they break up
the solid glass does not
the balloons are used in fairing compounds and are easy to sand because they break up
the solid glass does not
Don't Work:
Latex Paint, Very easy to scape or scratch.
What Works (better, I hope):
Bought some Garage Floor Paint (2 part epoxy) on clearance. I used it on Beesboy's pirogue. It is much harder and smoother.
I added 20% silica to the last coat.
beekeeper
Latex Paint, Very easy to scape or scratch.
What Works (better, I hope):
Bought some Garage Floor Paint (2 part epoxy) on clearance. I used it on Beesboy's pirogue. It is much harder and smoother.
I added 20% silica to the last coat.
beekeeper
A boat from one sheet of plywood?
The Dug: http://koti.kapsi.fi/hvartial/oss3/oss3.htm
Gallery: http://koti.kapsi.fi/hvartial/oss3/gallery/gallery.htm
The Dug: http://koti.kapsi.fi/hvartial/oss3/oss3.htm
Gallery: http://koti.kapsi.fi/hvartial/oss3/gallery/gallery.htm
I applaud a guy who will work to produce a design. I'd hope that he continues with this one until it's done. So far, he has a boat that can be paddled around on a calm pond. Next, he can work to get it away from the beach or dock, and out into water where a paddler can go camping, cruising, fishing, or anything else that interests paddlers. I wish him luck.
Looking for a non-slip surface? Try using Rust-O-Luem spray on Truck Bed Liner. It is tough, durable and is very slip resistant.
Weighed most of my gear and myself today. Total load 387lbs. Add the camera, viennies, and other essentials and the total will bump 400. Because 3/4 of the weight will be aft of center I best stay with asymmetracal swede form boats. Lighter folks with heaver gear may benefit from an asymmetrical fish form.
beekeeper
beekeeper
Looking forward to build another boat in 2012. Not sure where to start, but will take a look back at my goals, and how they may have changed. Also looking at things I have learned, and "what works/what don't" from my past builds. None were disapointing but, none completly met all the goals I had in mind, or they could have been built better. That is a not a bad thing, because I get to keep trying.
A boat build does not have to meet any goals. It can be built just because you like it and want too. That boat for me will be a lapstrake one day. I like the way they look.
My last boat is a great fishing boat.
After using it, if I were to do it over I would address the turbulance issue caused by it having a square transom. I would give up it's perfect fit in my truck and add two feet to the floor and give it a pointed stern.
What would you like to build in 2012 and why?
What would you change, or improve about your boat?
beekeeper
A boat build does not have to meet any goals. It can be built just because you like it and want too. That boat for me will be a lapstrake one day. I like the way they look.
My last boat is a great fishing boat.
After using it, if I were to do it over I would address the turbulance issue caused by it having a square transom. I would give up it's perfect fit in my truck and add two feet to the floor and give it a pointed stern.
What would you like to build in 2012 and why?
What would you change, or improve about your boat?
beekeeper
Thanks Joey for your comments. I am still looking for the best boat I can build for my use. Getting closer all the time, if my goals don't change befor I get there. I do hope to get close to that ideal, and hope my skills improve to the point I can build it out of top grade materials.
I'm not sure about the decks idea. The boat pictured has a larger deck than my other decks, but it was done to mount a troll motor if the boat proved too wide to paddle well. The motor won't be needed. Decks would improve resistance to wind cocking and I do like their looks. I'm not sure if I want to restict front and rear entry. Has that been an issue with the swamper. The open boat also is easier to load and reach my tackle box, rods, and ice chest as I fish.
I,m not sure about heading in the canoe direction. My soft chined stripper pirogue and my son's hard chine pirogue are identical in all other aspects but his feels more stable and we can't tell any differance in performance.
My dilemma = build this design but add 2' to floor with pointed stern = eliminats transom turbulance = better top speed.
Add pointed stern and reduce the width by 2" = better top speed but with less stability = another
dilemma, I won't know what improved the speed; pointed stern and extra length, or the narrower beam.
The boat is so stable now, I feel confident I can reduce the floor by 2" and still sit at my target height of 14".
Guess I need to get started building. :roll:
beekeeper
I'm not sure about the decks idea. The boat pictured has a larger deck than my other decks, but it was done to mount a troll motor if the boat proved too wide to paddle well. The motor won't be needed. Decks would improve resistance to wind cocking and I do like their looks. I'm not sure if I want to restict front and rear entry. Has that been an issue with the swamper. The open boat also is easier to load and reach my tackle box, rods, and ice chest as I fish.
I,m not sure about heading in the canoe direction. My soft chined stripper pirogue and my son's hard chine pirogue are identical in all other aspects but his feels more stable and we can't tell any differance in performance.
My dilemma = build this design but add 2' to floor with pointed stern = eliminats transom turbulance = better top speed.
Add pointed stern and reduce the width by 2" = better top speed but with less stability = another
dilemma, I won't know what improved the speed; pointed stern and extra length, or the narrower beam.
The boat is so stable now, I feel confident I can reduce the floor by 2" and still sit at my target height of 14".
Guess I need to get started building. :roll:
beekeeper
Beekeeper
I am in a fix as far as building another boat this year, The North Wind fits me so well that for the first time since starting this journey I dont feel like I can improve on it.
The 5 ft decks and 7 ft open cockpit lets me do it all.
I will build some more boats but I think my focus now will be on different building techniques,
a lot more trips,and trying to wear this boat out.
I hope you find one that fits you as well.
Ron
I am in a fix as far as building another boat this year, The North Wind fits me so well that for the first time since starting this journey I dont feel like I can improve on it.
The 5 ft decks and 7 ft open cockpit lets me do it all.
I will build some more boats but I think my focus now will be on different building techniques,
a lot more trips,and trying to wear this boat out.
I hope you find one that fits you as well.
Ron
Bee, the decks on the Swamper do have a down side. No sand bars or mud flats around here to ease onto and get out over the side. I have to spend an extra few minutes picking the right spot to allow me to get out. Open decks allow you to nose up to the bank and get out over the bow. Probably that's the best route for you to go. Realistically, if you're not covering miles of water at cruising speeds, your soft or hard chine pirogue design should be about perfect for you.
2" narrower beam might be a stretch with a 14" seat height. In my 25" bottom pirogue, i could NEVER be comfortable with that kind of seat height. :shock: I would be surprised if a 2" narrower beam would add .2 mph to your cruising speed. It might be better for your use to err on the side of comfortable fishing.
Bee, I really don't think you can improve much on the build quality and materials in that soft chined strip pirogue. About as good as it gets.
Joey
2" narrower beam might be a stretch with a 14" seat height. In my 25" bottom pirogue, i could NEVER be comfortable with that kind of seat height. :shock: I would be surprised if a 2" narrower beam would add .2 mph to your cruising speed. It might be better for your use to err on the side of comfortable fishing.
Bee, I really don't think you can improve much on the build quality and materials in that soft chined strip pirogue. About as good as it gets.
Joey
The 14" seating is in the boat pictured, not my pirogue. This boat has a 30" wide bottom. I thought going to 28" might not change the stability a lot. The boat moved along well enough fishing and cruising. Its top speed is just not much more it's cruising speed. I will probably build one the same width with a longer bottom and pointed stern. That way I will know for sure if the turbulance of the transom is the problem, plus I won't loose any stability.
I usually try to "beach" my boat and exit from the side. Most of the time way up north (around Shreveport) where I have paddled it works out. Seems a deck on the front would reduce windcocking. You could just "dock" the stern end if you need to, for an exit.
beekeeper
I usually try to "beach" my boat and exit from the side. Most of the time way up north (around Shreveport) where I have paddled it works out. Seems a deck on the front would reduce windcocking. You could just "dock" the stern end if you need to, for an exit.
beekeeper
BeeKeeper, may i suggest that for your next boat, you take a look at a Southwind and a Northwind? These boats are pretty versatile and robust. Whatever you build, I'd like to see it.