What Works / What Don't
- Thread starter beekeeper
- Start date
The healing treatment for my (severely) injured hand was relatively simple. Grasp a shot glass of single malt scotch, sip it. Repeat as often as necessary.
Interesting glue test:
http://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/glue.html
Also lots of ideas and information on his home page:
http://woodgears.ca/index.html
http://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/glue.html
Also lots of ideas and information on his home page:
http://woodgears.ca/index.html
JD, I appreciate your efforts to present a well set up experiment, free of bias. Good to see.
On your epoxy joints, I wonder if a tight clamp may have produced a glue starved joint?
On your epoxy joints, I wonder if a tight clamp may have produced a glue starved joint?
Jack, they were not my test but seemed to be well done and fair. I think he concluded or suspected the epoxy's poor results may have been related to the cold temperatures. The results are valid for the tests' parameters. All factors have to be considered and evaluated when choosing the best components. I don't think epoxy users need to get worried over these test. We all know epoxy can make a strong joint. How strong is strong enough and/or do I consider other factors?
I like Titebond 3, so I was pleased it did well.
I like Titebond 3, so I was pleased it did well.
OK, thanks. Any adhesive that is as strong as, or stronger than, the parent material will partiallytear apart the wood on total destruction. If more strength is required, there will have to be reinfocement added (more material added onto the joint).
SCOTCH is an EXCELLENT medication, always works, dosage varies depending on injury.
Well, Frank, you're right - dosage depends upon severeity of injury. BUT, I have been known to increase dosage as a preventive measure against future injuries. So far, in the last 50 years it hasn't prevented a damned thing.
Research, however, continues.
Research, however, continues.
When I used to paddle (over twenty years ago, Tupperware), I used a West Greenland style also had an asymmetrical paddle, they don't splash if used with the proper technique.
The goal that I have set is extremely critical, IT HAS TO FLOAT!Looking forward to build another boat in 2012. Not sure where to start, but will take a look back at my goals, and how they may have changed. Also looking at things I have learned, and "what works/what don't" from my past builds. None were disapointing but, none completly met all the goals I had in mind, or they could have been built better. That is a not a bad thing, because I get to keep trying.
A boat build does not have to meet any goals. It can be built just because you like it and want too. That boat for me will be a lapstrake one day. I like the way they look.
My last boat is a great fishing boat.
After using it, if I were to do it over I would address the turbulance issue caused by it having a square transom. I would give up it's perfect fit in my truck and add two feet to the floor and give it a pointed stern.
What would you like to build in 2012 and why?
What would you change, or improve about your boat?
beekeeper
Frank, those who use a kayak paddle like a windmill are using them wrongly. On the forward stroke, where we spend almost all of our time, the paddle should remain parallel to our shoulders. Our elbows should be below our shoulders - helps to prevent shoulder dislocation.
Grasp the paddle with hands about shoulder width apart. Bend your elbows slightly, so they are comfortable. While actually paddling, your elbows may bend ever so slightly, but in general remain bent at about the same, comfortable angle all the time.
Rotate to your right and lower the left blade into the water near where your feet are. WITHOUT bending your elbows, rotate your back and shoulders leftwards until the blade is just past your hip. Now lower the right blade into the water near your feet, and rotate back and shoulders rightwards until the blade is just past your hip. Repeat as you traverse the water.
The back muscles are now doing the work, not arm muscles. Set a comfortable pace. Don't bend your elbows or windmill the paddle. Paddlers are more comfortable using this stroke, and can cruise longer without fatigue.
Grasp the paddle with hands about shoulder width apart. Bend your elbows slightly, so they are comfortable. While actually paddling, your elbows may bend ever so slightly, but in general remain bent at about the same, comfortable angle all the time.
Rotate to your right and lower the left blade into the water near where your feet are. WITHOUT bending your elbows, rotate your back and shoulders leftwards until the blade is just past your hip. Now lower the right blade into the water near your feet, and rotate back and shoulders rightwards until the blade is just past your hip. Repeat as you traverse the water.
The back muscles are now doing the work, not arm muscles. Set a comfortable pace. Don't bend your elbows or windmill the paddle. Paddlers are more comfortable using this stroke, and can cruise longer without fatigue.
This idea is more a recommendation than a "work/don't work".
When picking out plywood use a flashlight to inspect each sheet. Outside at home ,my last purchases don't look as well as I thought they did inside the store.
May just be my ageing eyesight.
When picking out plywood use a flashlight to inspect each sheet. Outside at home ,my last purchases don't look as well as I thought they did inside the store.
May just be my ageing eyesight.
Good idea, I keep forgetting there's a bright light on my phone. Wish it had a built-in tape measure