Time to glass the outside. Gravity is your friend ( or enemy) when it comes to working with epoxy. Sometimes it takes extra steps but I prefer to move the boat around to try not to glass completely vertical or upside down pieces. We clamped the forms in the best we could. John came up with the idea to fasten the forms together with two 2x2’s , so they would be one unit. It works well, I like it better than putting the forms in place with a hot glue gun.
We measured the distance from tumble home to the center of the bottom, 25 ". Our cloth is 50”, so it will be close to covering half the bottom and sides at a time.
We covered the table with plastic to keep the fiberglass from snagging. We cut the 50-in piece right down the center using a straightedge and a fabric roller cutter. Then we rolled each 25 inch piece up on PVC pipe.
After a saturation coat was applied and lightly sanded to remove the “wiskers” we unrolled the 4 oz cloth on the boat and smooth it completely flat with large brush making sure ALL the wrinkles were removed.
We are short a few pictures here . We rolled the epoxy onto the cloth, using 4 “ foam rollers ¼” inch nape. Made the coat as thin as we could. We cut the smaller roller covers from 9” rollers available on RAKA, also ⅛” from wooster on amazon. After rolling we then tipped it off with a four inch foam brush.This makes a smoother coat and helps remove any bubbles.Temperature management is probably one of the most effective tools for managing bubbles. You really need a decreasing temperature during the cure.Old Sparky explained this in the comments above. We almost didn’t make the temperature decrease, the shop was 88 degrees, we turned the window air unit on and it only went down to 87 degrees. BUT it didn’t increase and we got a good application.
Almost caught up to current, we get to work some tomorrow, more then.