Put the first coat of varnish on today. What it is is what it is.
Thanks Wannabe for answering captindoug's questions.
It is flat paneled, but has soft (rounded over) chines. I don't think you can do that with the stitch and glue method.
I used a strongback with forms every foot. Each strip is clamped to every form while the glue dries. This also prevents nail holes.
The bead and cove allow the strips to roll around the radius between the sides and bottom without having to plane the edges of each strip. They keep the strips flush with each other between stations. I ran out of bead and coved strips for the bottom and finished with plain ones. I learned they should have been clamped together between forms while the glue dried, to keep them flush with each other. It would have saved a lot of sanding.
The pattern for the forms were made from measurements of my other pirogue, with a few changes. Swampwood drew patterns for me using that information. I built the forms with hard chines and then rounded them off. I used a 4" radius midway and tapering to 0" at each stem.
beekeeper
Thanks Wannabe for answering captindoug's questions.
It is flat paneled, but has soft (rounded over) chines. I don't think you can do that with the stitch and glue method.
I used a strongback with forms every foot. Each strip is clamped to every form while the glue dries. This also prevents nail holes.
The bead and cove allow the strips to roll around the radius between the sides and bottom without having to plane the edges of each strip. They keep the strips flush with each other between stations. I ran out of bead and coved strips for the bottom and finished with plain ones. I learned they should have been clamped together between forms while the glue dried, to keep them flush with each other. It would have saved a lot of sanding.
The pattern for the forms were made from measurements of my other pirogue, with a few changes. Swampwood drew patterns for me using that information. I built the forms with hard chines and then rounded them off. I used a 4" radius midway and tapering to 0" at each stem.
beekeeper