Gluing strips on a stripped boat | SouthernPaddler.com

Gluing strips on a stripped boat

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DCRICE

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2014
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Baton Rouge
It is too hot in Louisiana for me to build the next boat now. But it is a great time to sit in the air conditioning and plan the next one. Next spring, I plan to build a stripped Okwata 24” out of cypress. Before then, I plan to build a practice boat out of cedar.
I have built a jig for the table saw that allows for very consistent ¼” strips out of 2X4s and I am building a 16’ X 16” table for gluing the strips. I have made a few test panels and I am pleased by the strength of the panels with the strips glued side to side with Titebond III.
But I am having a problem with the strips glued end to end. The cypress will probably be from a house tear-down, so the best lumber will possibly be random length. My plan is to bend the strips to the contour of the upper panel for gluing, and the end to end titebond joints are not holding. Will a epoxy joint solve this, or should I just plan to use nails and screws at these joints until the edge to edge glue joints dry?
Thanks for any help
Dan
 
O

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
10,479
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Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
When I did the strips for my Redwood Pirogue I layed the strips out and used the titbond glue then clamped them together. After the glue set I sanded off the excess glue and then went in and ran a thin bead of epoxy along each strip of glue. The epoxy soaked into the wood and made a good bond I flipped the pieces over and did the same to the other side.
After the epoxy set then i assembled the panels and glassed them.

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2417&hilit=stripper

Chuck.
 
D

DCRICE

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2014
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Baton Rouge
Thanks Ron & Chuck. I am probably over working this, but I want to be real good at it before I start working with the old cypress.
I will finish the gluing table this week and start ripping the cedar. Did you guys do the end to end splices before bending the contour or just glue it all at one time?
 
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DCRICE

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2014
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Baton Rouge
Thanks Ron, I have a box plane, and friends with large planers if things don't stay flat. I plan on clamps and weights to hold everything in place.
Dan
 
D

DCRICE

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2014
70
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Baton Rouge
During the 35 years of doing electric work for a large refinery here in Baton Rouge, I came to subscribe to a never fail theory of electrical devices. All electrical devices work on smoke. When the smoke gets out, they quit working.
Today, I finally got everything together to cut some full length strips and do a little gluing of the side panels. The first 2 strips came out a perfect .25”, but on the third strip, the smoke got out of the table saw. So I guess I have another project before I can continue with the practice boat.
Dan
 
B

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,917
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DCRICE said:
It is..................
I have built a jig for the table saw that allows for very consistent ¼” strips out of 2X4s and I am building a 16’ X 16” table for gluing the strips. I have made a few test panels and I am pleased by the strength of the panels with the strips glued side to side with Titebond III.
But I am having a problem with the strips glued end to end. ......... My plan is to bend the strips to the contour of the upper panel for gluing, and the end to end titebond joints are not holding. Will a epoxy joint solve this, or should I just plan to use nails and screws at these joints until the edge to edge glue joints dry?
Thanks for any help
Dan
Click to expand...

Are you making a flat panel, then cutting the panel to size as you would do using plywood, or are you bending the strips to follow the contour of the panel, like these seedtick did?

DSC05519-1.jpg


DSC05836-1.jpg


Scarf joints and Titebond 111 would probably hold the ends together. The butt joint and the glued edges will not be very strong until the fiberglass is applied. One builder on this site made the panel on the table then applied the glass on the inside side while the panel was flat on the table, Installed it as you would one cut from plywood and then fiberglass the outside of the boat.

beekeeper
 
D

DCRICE

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2014
70
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70
Baton Rouge
Thanks beekeeper, I am planning on bending the strips and gluing to match the upper contour of the laker then cutting the bottom as per the drawings.
I am planning on doing something before trying to install the panels on the plywood bottom. Right now I am leaning towards glassing the inside before I move the panels. But that will be a little later down the road. I haven't got the strips cut yet. I looked up all the motor parts for the Sears table saw a little while ago and I think I may just look for a new saw.
Dan
 
B

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,917
59
I don't know about much about drawings (actually nothing), but if you are bending the strips to the contour of the panels it may prove difficult with 1.5" strips cut from a 2" X 6" board. Try one and see, before you cut more. If you need I" thick cedar lumber, Stein's Lumber in Walker had some nice boards at one time.

beekeeper
 
D

DCRICE

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2014
70
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70
Baton Rouge
Thanks Ron. Yes I have read your build. Ya'll make it seem easy, and it will probably come together for me at some point. I have little woodworking experience and always over complicate things. I think the 1 1/2" will be fine for the sides, there is only a 1 1/8" offset over 14 ft.. The tumblehome will need more of a bend, but not all of that is on the flat of the strip.
First, I have to find a new saw. I looked at the price of the Sears motor parts, and the only cost effective repair would be the brushes. I pulled them out, and they look good. So I will be looking at other options.
Dan
 
D

DCRICE

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2014
70
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70
Baton Rouge
Hey Guys. I got a little bit done this weekend. Cutting strips again, glued the first panel, lay-out and trimmed. Now it is time for another decision and question. I have seen that at this point some folks dribble epoxy into the glue joints, some glass the entire panel, and some just install it on the boat as is. Right now, I plan to dribble epoxy into the butt joints and glass about a foot in the middle and on each end. The build is going to be slow, so imagine this thing stored on the carport for a few weeks or months. Any comments appreciated?
Thanks
Dan

 
T

tx river rat

Well-Known Member
Feb 23, 2007
3,043
2
Waco Tx
Dan
Glass the whole thing or glass nothing , I didnt glass anything before I assembled the boat.
You will create hard spots just glass part of the boat.
Ron
 
O

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
10,479
123
Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
Epoxy the glue strips , that makes sure they will hold for you.

If you are going to have the panels laying around for a while I would epoxy saturate them to seal them from the weather. You will have to give them a light sanding before you glass them or get around to glassing them at a later date. The epoxy saturation will raise some of the woods fibers and form what I call whiskers and a light sanding takes care of them later on.

The epoxy saturation will let the panels bend to form the shape you want for the boat , glassing the panels will offer a lot of resistance to them when you want to bend them to the boats shape.

No matter which way you go , make sure nothing with any form of oil gets near them , containers , liquids , sprays , dirty rags , NOTHING or you will have some spots that epoxy and glass will not stick to. Alcohol usually gets rid of the oil residue but you don't know it is there till you see the dimples in the epoxy where it refuses to remain.

Chuck.........
 
D

DCRICE

Well-Known Member
Jun 2, 2014
70
0
70
Baton Rouge
Thanks for the advice Ron and Chuck. Yeah, wasn't sure about using the glass, but I don't want it to come apart. I think a coat of epoxy may be the best way.
Thanks again. This panel has to move so I can build another.
Dan
 
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