A new pirogue project in Tallahassee
- Thread starter PeteStaehling
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Yeah, quite unusual I think, but a fortunate combination. Looking at her I would have never guessed what she is. I would have said lab mix. She is a great dog in any case.
The hull is faired, and glass is spread over it ready for epoxy. I may not get to the epoxy until tomorrow though. Any last minute advice before I epoxy it? It has been years, well decades actually, since I have done any glass work.
If you epoxy saturated ( sealed ) the wood no problems when glassing. If you haven't epoxy saturated ( sealed ) the wood there is a possibility some air might escape from the wood when you add the epoxy to the glass.
A easy way to avoid any bubbles is to do it when the air temperature is decreasing. This way none of the air , in the wood would be escaping , if anything it would be drawn into the wood.
All I can tell you is when I epoxy saturated the wood ( prior to glassing the next day ) in the morning , as the ambient temperature rose so did bubbles. If I epoxy saturated the wood in the evening then I would not have any bubbles.
Not sure about adding glass and epoxy to raw wood and if it would cause any bubbles but judging from past experience I would think it might possible and something to look out for.
A easy way to avoid any bubbles is to do it when the air temperature is decreasing. This way none of the air , in the wood would be escaping , if anything it would be drawn into the wood.
All I can tell you is when I epoxy saturated the wood ( prior to glassing the next day ) in the morning , as the ambient temperature rose so did bubbles. If I epoxy saturated the wood in the evening then I would not have any bubbles.
Not sure about adding glass and epoxy to raw wood and if it would cause any bubbles but judging from past experience I would think it might possible and something to look out for.
So my typical habit of working in the early morning may not be the best idea.If you epoxy saturated ( sealed ) the wood no problems when glassing. If you haven't epoxy saturated ( sealed ) the wood there is a possibility some air might escape from the wood when you add the epoxy to the glass.
A easy way to avoid any bubbles is to do it when the air temperature is decreasing. This way none of the air , in the wood would be escaping , if anything it would be drawn into the wood.
All I can tell you is when I epoxy saturated the wood ( prior to glassing the next day ) in the morning , as the ambient temperature rose so did bubbles. If I epoxy saturated the wood in the evening then I would not have any bubbles.
Not sure about adding glass and epoxy to raw wood and if it would cause any bubbles but judging from past experience I would think it might possible and something to look out for.
I do have a little oil filled electric space heater that I sometimes put under projects to make slow epoxy set in cool weather. I could warm up the boat and then turn it down in increments. I would be cutting my working time with the epoxy though.
On the other hand the shop temperature doesn't swing too widely this time of year even though the AC died and has not been replaced yet.
Maybe the best idea is to work when the shop is the warmest point of the day, even though it doesn't suit my normal schedule. I think I'll keep an eye on the shop temperature today and see how it fluctuates.
I could also roll up the glass and seal the plywood first I guess, but the sealing would still want to be done in the warmest part of the day for the same reason I guess
" but the sealing would still want to be done in the warmest part of the day for the same reason I guess ."
YES.....
If you seal the wood before glassing it offers a better bond with the epoxy when you glass it. The glassing would have to be done withing a 48 hour period.
Plus you ...MIGHT ...need to lightly sand the boat since the epoxy fills the wood fibers. It can cause some of them to rise like a whisker. The whisker can grab the glass when it's laid out and causing a run in it.
Sanding is simple , use fine paper and give the hull a light rub down , it should be smooth. Take a clean , grease , oil free rag and wipe the dust off. Any petroleum product will not let the epoxy bond and cause dimples in the epoxy.
YES.....
If you seal the wood before glassing it offers a better bond with the epoxy when you glass it. The glassing would have to be done withing a 48 hour period.
Plus you ...MIGHT ...need to lightly sand the boat since the epoxy fills the wood fibers. It can cause some of them to rise like a whisker. The whisker can grab the glass when it's laid out and causing a run in it.
Sanding is simple , use fine paper and give the hull a light rub down , it should be smooth. Take a clean , grease , oil free rag and wipe the dust off. Any petroleum product will not let the epoxy bond and cause dimples in the epoxy.
I have had good luck in the past without pre-sealing the wood and the weather looks like it will hit a high for the week before a cooler front rolls in at 4pm. The drop at 4pm looks like a quick one followed by a pretty steady temperature for the following 24 hours The shop is connected to the house and fairly well insulated so the swings in temperature are not super wide and given the steady outdoor temperature after the drop the indoor temperature should be falling slowly or steady after the initial drop.
So right now I am leaning toward just applying epoxy on the glass this afternoon around 4. I could conceivably change my mind and roll the glass back up and do a sealer coat, but I am not leaning that way at the moment.
So right now I am leaning toward just applying epoxy on the glass this afternoon around 4. I could conceivably change my mind and roll the glass back up and do a sealer coat, but I am not leaning that way at the moment.
The glass is on and it went well except for some separating from the edge on one side. It went beyond what the rails will cover so I wetted it out in only those spots again and clamped it to get adhesion. I used plastic wrap as a release sheet. Once that is set, I'll put a light coat or two over it all before sanding and installing the rails.
I have not decided if I am using any glass on the inside and if so how much. I am thinking maybe bottom only or possibly high traffic bottom areas only.
I have not decided if I am using any glass on the inside and if so how much. I am thinking maybe bottom only or possibly high traffic bottom areas only.
You want it on the inside on the bottom. If you run up onto a stump, or a rock, it bends the bottom upwards, stretching the inside surface. Glass protects against splitting and tearing the wood.
Maybe some on joints too?
Maybe some on joints too?
So on the bottom and up the side a bit to reinforce the seam?You want it on the inside on the bottom. If you run up onto a stump, or a rock, it bends the bottom upwards, stretching the inside surface. Glass protects against splitting and tearing the wood.
Maybe some on joints too?
Traditionally, yes. Makes the boat more “robust”. Less likely of clumsy guys like me busting it. Quite so quick.
The glass is on and it went well except for some separating from the edge on one side. It went beyond what the rails will cover so I wetted it out in only those spots again and clamped it to get adhesion. I used plastic wrap as a release sheet. Once that is set, I'll put a light coat or two over it all before sanding and installing the rails.
I have not decided if I am using any glass on the inside and if so how much. I am thinking maybe bottom only or possibly high traffic bottom areas only.
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Congratulations on a big step. t always feel good to complete a major piece of the boat.enjoy the success!
Thanks!Congratulations on a big step. t always feel good to complete a major piece of the boat.enjoy the success!
The second coat of epoxy is on the outside this morning! I rolled it on with a 4" foam roller and tipped it with a foam brush. The places where cloth had pulled away and left a blister along one edge seem to be successfully re-adhered. I could really no longer see where they were other than the shine where the plastic wrap was used as peel ply when I clamped the area for the repair.
I don't know whether it will need a third coat or not before sanding. I guess I'll try a little light sanding and see if it looks like I am sanding into the fibers too much. I don't want to sand into the cloth, but I also don't want to use more resin than necessary and add weight.
BTW, I am wondering about the finishing of the epoxy inside. Is the floor desirable to leave it textured with weave showing for traction?
I have done floors both ways, shiny and rough.My opinion is the glass needs to be filled for strength.kep moving onThanks!
The second coat of epoxy is on the outside this morning! I rolled it on with a 4" foam roller and tipped it with a foam brush. The places where cloth had pulled away and left a blister along one edge seem to be successfully re-adhered. I could really no longer see where they were other than the shine where the plastic wrap was used as peel ply when I clamped the area for the repair.
I don't know whether it will need a third coat or not before sanding. I guess I'll try a little light sanding and see if it looks like I am sanding into the fibers too much. I don't want to sand into the cloth, but I also don't want to use more resin than necessary and add weight.
BTW, I am wondering about the finishing of the epoxy inside. Is the floor desirable to leave it textured with weave showing for traction?
So at least a couple applications. I figure that the glass can be considered filled and still have texture showing, so I can see maybe leaving the weave pattern visible with the cloth filled, but not sanded off flat. I'll put off the decision until I get there.I have done floors both ways, shiny and rough.My opinion is the glass needs to be filled for strength.kep moving on
I’ve never had trouble with traction on the finished fiber glass. My shoes/Crocs/muklucks always grpped the surface.
EXCEPT one time when there was about a 1/2” of slimy mud on my boot sole. But, no matter. It washed right off my boot when I stood up in the water. ;-)
canoeing is a wet sport
EXCEPT one time when there was about a 1/2” of slimy mud on my boot sole. But, no matter. It washed right off my boot when I stood up in the water. ;-)
canoeing is a wet sport
I was actually thinking about my older dog more than myself.I’ve never had trouble with traction on the finished fiber glass.
waving my hand in the air - jumping up and down “PICK ME!! PICK ME!!”
Yeah, me too.;-)
Actually, Pete, the pad of a dog’s paw is pretty grippy. My beagle used to jump up onto my motorcycle, and ride along on the gas tank. But, I respect your concern about Marne.
Yeah, me too.;-)
Actually, Pete, the pad of a dog’s paw is pretty grippy. My beagle used to jump up onto my motorcycle, and ride along on the gas tank. But, I respect your concern about Marne.
She had been having trouble with slick surfaces in the house (engineered wood flooring). We were putting throw rugs and towels everywhere because she balked at walking in much of the house or slipped often.waving my hand in the air - jumping up and down “PICK ME!! PICK ME!!”
Yeah, me too.;-)
Actually, Pete, the pad of a dog’s paw is pretty grippy. My beagle used to jump up onto my motorcycle, and ride along on the gas tank. But, I respect your concern about Marne.
I guess that maybe it is not so much of an issue now though because after her surgery she has been doing fine on the floors.