Pirogues Home Built Bow | SouthernPaddler.com

Pirogues Home Built Bow

Pirogue

Well-Known Member
I have been looking for a project. However, time, space and money keeps me from tackling a boat right now. So I decided to give a home built bow a shot. They are cheap enough to build, and if I am successful, it would give my daughter and I another thing we can do together. My yard is big enough that we could set up some targets and have some fun. Besides, my neighbor let her cat get out a couple years ago and . . ., but I digress.

So here we go.

First I started with a pretty nice grained piece of red oak.
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Ripped it by hand with my riobi saw, which I might add was no easy task.
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Did my lay out
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Rough cut
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Another view
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And rough cut my grip
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Here is wear I messed up a bit. I got a little over zealous with the chisel and cut the grip a little off kilter and a little narrower than what I would have liked. But I am trying to fix with a couple small pieces and some artistic shaping.

I glued on additional red oak and a couple small pieces of poplar to for the rest of the grip. Notice my high tech radius template
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Now I am starting to fair it out.
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More to come as I progress. I think this can get addicting.
 

Kayak Jack

Well-Known Member
Aug 26, 2003
13,976
171
86
Okemos / East Lansing Michigan
Looks very good to me, Pirogue. The guys who make bows will have some comments too.

BTW, on your Japanese hand saw, take a pair of common pliers, and break off those two, outside corners about 1/4 " to 3/8". Expose the teeth. This way, you can start a cut in the middle of a board as easily as on the edges. A Japanese carpenter taught me that in Northern Japan about 45 years ago.
 

Pirogue

Well-Known Member
crkdltr said:
I'm curious where you picked up the oak from. Box store or local supplier?

I am ashamed to say I got it from the big orange box store. But we have a really nice lumberyard in town for when I get better at this.

Have not done too much this week. Weekdays are pretty busy. I will try to make more progress this weekend.
 

Pirogue

Well-Known Member
So my next step was to sand the bow down.

80- 120- 200- 400 grits

Then I hand rubbed some linseed oil into the work. I forgot how unimpressed I am with red oak. It just seems too porous for my liking. But the oil fills it in nicely and I will continue to oil the bow for a while.

I am not very happy with the handle. But I think I am going to hide it behind a leather grip.

My task for tomorrow is to run by our local bow shop to pick up a sting and some leather. No- I did not tiller the bow yet. On this one, I don't think I am going to. I want to see if my basic woodworking is up to par. For some reason, I have the sinking suspician this think may come apart under draw. Oh yee of little faith. :roll:

My draw length is 80.25 / 2.5 = 32.1
My Daughter's 67/ 2.5= 26.8 or 26.25 using the "fist against the wall method."

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Kayak Jack

Well-Known Member
Aug 26, 2003
13,976
171
86
Okemos / East Lansing Michigan
Pirogue said:
...My draw length is 80.25 / 2.5 = 32.1 ...
Pirogue, exactly what does the "80.25" represent? I'm pre-thinking it may be both arms extended, widest finger tip to fingertip?

My next pre-thinking, was imagining you then scrambling for a tape measure while holding that position. :wink:
 

Pirogue

Well-Known Member
Kayak Jack said:
Pirogue said:
...My draw length is 80.25 / 2.5 = 32.1 ...
Pirogue, exactly what does the "80.25" represent? I'm pre-thinking it may be both arms extended, widest finger tip to fingertip?

My next pre-thinking, was imagining you then scrambling for a tape measure while holding that position. :wink:

80.25 is finger tip to finger tip. That is where my older daughter (I call her #1)comes in. She measured me. My "fist against the wall method confirmed my draw length. It stinks being a freak of nature sometimes.
 

tx river rat

Well-Known Member
Feb 23, 2007
3,043
2
Waco Tx
I have never built a board bow,I have always used a stave I cut and followed the outsid ring,I have never broken one knock on wood,If you hadnt oiled it I would have suggested you back it with something.
Ron
66 inches might be a little short for your draw ,I would say at least a 70 inch bow would be the shortest for an all wood bow at 32.5 inches.
Ron
 

Pirogue

Well-Known Member
Wannabe,

I may go ahead and tiller it. But I will have to built the jig, but that shouldn't take too long

Tex,
I thought about backing it. What would you use? Fiberglass or burlap. I really wanted to oil finish it. So, If I back my next one, what would you finish yours with?
 

tx river rat

Well-Known Member
Feb 23, 2007
3,043
2
Waco Tx
There is a book called the bent stick,it is the best reference I know of, it goes through different backing materials ,my first bow was backed with nylon cut from a tent fly,if your burlap is the same as here it wouldnt work very well. They say if you dont want a bow to break overbuild the bow in length and width of the limbs, I have a 31 inch draw and a 64 to 66 inch bow is a bought right for me.
Do tiller the bow ,while you are tillering you are accomplishing two things that will help the bow stay together,one pulling just an inch or two and then working the limb breaks the bow in,more bows are broken because the first time someone pulls it they try to draw it to full draw, they have a break in cycle.A smooth arch put strain on the whole limb not in just one place.
Second thing is go to an anchor on the front of your chin instead of the side of your mouth this can shorten your draw.
I really recommend the book I spoke of.
Ron
 

Pirogue

Well-Known Member
I will look for the book.

So, today I figured I would get my bow string and went to Arrowhead Archery in Seffner (a little plug here). The fella at the workshop was more than happy to help me get a string. Problem is, my hunk o' lumber won't bend. He said it was way too stiff and figured it had a draw weight of about 150lbs. It was quite a spectacle watching him try to string it. I told him not to hurt himself and he finally gave up.

Long story short, the bow will be going on a diet, probably tomorrow night. I will attempt to post a couple of pics of the carnage.

While there, I got to take a look at some longbows and recurves someone north of us builds. He lives in Zephyrhills and his name is Clark Roman. I would post his web address, but it appears as though he ain't staked out a claim on the interweb yet.

His work showed me how delicate you can build a bow, yet still have it perform. Unfortunately I grew up with the mindset that if you weren't sure something will hold up, just make it bigger, tack another weld or use more duct tape. I think longbows and recurves are a little more finesse than strength.

And the saga continues. . .
 

Pirogue

Well-Known Member
Lessons in Bow Making


Okay, So today I have taken off about a strong quarter on each side of each limb. The next step was to plane the edges to some form of flat.

And I now have it strung. - No, I have not drawn the string back yet. But I set the bow dow and veiwed it from afar. I can see one side with a pronounced "kink" at one limb exactly where I predicted there would be a kink. Also, that side has more of a bend than the other. So, with the sure form file I started scraping the wood down on either limb. The bends are evening out.

Amazingly the bow is coming together.

One thing that I am noticing is the bow is starting to show it's own form. Rather than the chunck of wood I posted in it's earlier stages, the lines on the limbs are starting to become more fluid, rounded and natural for lack of a better term. The angles and shapes I worried about during the original process do not exist anymore. Mechanical symetry is gone. Now it is a more natural shape.

Does that make any sense?

Now I am going to research tillering stands and take this to the next step.

Pics to come soon.

Also, "The Bent Stick" appears to be out of print.
 

Pirogue

Well-Known Member
Broke

Right where I knew there was a weak spot.

I had it on the tiller stand and then I hear a little snap crackle, pop and POW! She was at 22 inches draw

Jack,
Maybe someone else can explain it better than I. But I took a 2x4 and drilled 36 3/8 holes, then cut notches for the string. I was stressing the bow in the consecutive notches. That way I could check to see if the bow bent evenly. If you get flat spots, then you work the wood until it is an even bend.

Maybe Tex can give a better explaination.

Unto the next one!