Right off the bat, let me tell you all about an OMG! moment I just had. . .
I was looking a a drawing I'd made early on, using some graph paper that I printed up, to see about the amount of freeboard with 10" sides at a 35* angle. I noticed that I had two sides drawn, at different angles. Turns out that even though they looked different, both were 35* angles, one was 35* from vertical, one was 35* from horizontal. Say WHAT?!!? :shock:
I quickly double checked the jig I'd been using even though I was sure it was right, and turns out, it IS right.
But for a couple of minutes there. . . Well, at least now I know for sure that the Doc's repair job on the ticker actually worked!
Jack,
I don't think you were really in too much danger. . .
I do appreciate your concern about my recuperation, just so you know, my projected return to work date is the 22 of this month. Hey, wait just a minute! YOU don't have some money riding on this, do you? And if so, can I get in on it?
Joey,
I can see how useful the cardboard pieces could be, and how fast. I'm using the luan on a larger scale, partly to help drill the lessons learned into my own head, and partly because it's easier to get a good picture of. OK, maybe because I'm also suffering from a touch of CABIN FEVER!!! Sorry, I didn't mean to yell, sometimes it just gets away from me. :roll:
I know what you mean about using extreme examples to learn from. After stitching the two side panels together I spread them apart to put the jig in place and saw how the ends lifted. I did play with it a bit and increased the flare and beam up to the point I thought it might break, and it was amazing how much the rocker increased. It would have made a Colorado Drift Boat look like a flat bottom barge.
What my draft paper drawing did show me was that 10" sides, at 35*, would put the top edge of the sides around 7" up from the bottom. So if the bottom was 2 inches (light load,) underwater, that would leave only 5" of freeboard. Could be that I'm going to do a little re-thinking about the side panel dimensions. It would be "back to the old drawing board," except for the most part, I'm not drawing it out.
beekeeper,
That's a great picture! I think I get what you're saying about laying out the parts, and piecing the bottom together to make sure there's room for all the parts on the two sheets of ply. As far as the sides go, I was thinking not just that each side would be made from two parts, but also, those two parts don't really have to be "6ft halves," one could be 7ft, the other "half" could be 5ft, if it would make it easier to get all the pieces to fit (like a puzzle) on the sheets of ply.
Of course, I'll be adding to the lengths of the pieces to make up for the loss in the scarf joints.
Say, any idea if the scarf joint(s) in the bottom, or anywhere else for that matter, will add to the overall stiffness of the part being joined? I ask, kind of hoping to completely avoid adding frames. But I do know that if need be, floor frames can be added after the fact and would not be a problem to have to "live with."
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
I was looking a a drawing I'd made early on, using some graph paper that I printed up, to see about the amount of freeboard with 10" sides at a 35* angle. I noticed that I had two sides drawn, at different angles. Turns out that even though they looked different, both were 35* angles, one was 35* from vertical, one was 35* from horizontal. Say WHAT?!!? :shock:
I quickly double checked the jig I'd been using even though I was sure it was right, and turns out, it IS right.
But for a couple of minutes there. . . Well, at least now I know for sure that the Doc's repair job on the ticker actually worked!
Jack,
I don't think you were really in too much danger. . .
You gott'a know they'd have some kind of plans on getting their boat back. :wink:Kayak Jack said:But, it did get a bit dicey when a few whitecaps were dancing about. Joey and Piper San snickering in the background didn't help any, either.
I do appreciate your concern about my recuperation, just so you know, my projected return to work date is the 22 of this month. Hey, wait just a minute! YOU don't have some money riding on this, do you? And if so, can I get in on it?
Joey,
I can see how useful the cardboard pieces could be, and how fast. I'm using the luan on a larger scale, partly to help drill the lessons learned into my own head, and partly because it's easier to get a good picture of. OK, maybe because I'm also suffering from a touch of CABIN FEVER!!! Sorry, I didn't mean to yell, sometimes it just gets away from me. :roll:
I know what you mean about using extreme examples to learn from. After stitching the two side panels together I spread them apart to put the jig in place and saw how the ends lifted. I did play with it a bit and increased the flare and beam up to the point I thought it might break, and it was amazing how much the rocker increased. It would have made a Colorado Drift Boat look like a flat bottom barge.
What my draft paper drawing did show me was that 10" sides, at 35*, would put the top edge of the sides around 7" up from the bottom. So if the bottom was 2 inches (light load,) underwater, that would leave only 5" of freeboard. Could be that I'm going to do a little re-thinking about the side panel dimensions. It would be "back to the old drawing board," except for the most part, I'm not drawing it out.
beekeeper,
That's a great picture! I think I get what you're saying about laying out the parts, and piecing the bottom together to make sure there's room for all the parts on the two sheets of ply. As far as the sides go, I was thinking not just that each side would be made from two parts, but also, those two parts don't really have to be "6ft halves," one could be 7ft, the other "half" could be 5ft, if it would make it easier to get all the pieces to fit (like a puzzle) on the sheets of ply.
Of course, I'll be adding to the lengths of the pieces to make up for the loss in the scarf joints.
Say, any idea if the scarf joint(s) in the bottom, or anywhere else for that matter, will add to the overall stiffness of the part being joined? I ask, kind of hoping to completely avoid adding frames. But I do know that if need be, floor frames can be added after the fact and would not be a problem to have to "live with."
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL