drip caps for Wally World paddle
- Thread starter jdupre'
- Start date
a drip cathcer, should probably have a lip with one edge that points back toward the center of the shaft. Otherwise, water will run back down the outside of it toward the paddler.
Joey's original cup should work - even without the backward pointing edge - because it has enough volumetric capacity to hold a "paddle's worth" of water. A back up to it - a bit further inboard along the shaft - may not be necessary, but might help nonetheless. I have to try one in the field before I would venture any further.
It remains, the most original, best thought out solution to catching drips I've seen. (It even caught Piper San, proving that he's a drip!)
Joey's original cup should work - even without the backward pointing edge - because it has enough volumetric capacity to hold a "paddle's worth" of water. A back up to it - a bit further inboard along the shaft - may not be necessary, but might help nonetheless. I have to try one in the field before I would venture any further.
It remains, the most original, best thought out solution to catching drips I've seen. (It even caught Piper San, proving that he's a drip!)
Yep, the water runs back down the bottom of the shaft. BUT - it comes off the blade so fast that it often wraps around the entire circumference of the shaft first, and only then sluices down to the bottom.
This isn't because we geezers are paddling fast; it's the laminar flow of the water as it clings to the surface of the blade first being lifted, then swung through the stroke. There's likely a half cup of water, maybe a bit more, washing back down the blade as it lifts out of the water.
As the end of the paddle rises, the water gains speed and often simply overpasses common drip rings and continues down the shaft. Surface tension makes it cling to the shaft, and it takes a violent interruption to make it break its hold. That's why Joey's cup - that should actually stop, contain, and finally dump that half cup of fluid - is such a breakthrough.
But, it has to be far enough back up the shaft so it doesan't tangle in weeds if paddling in gunky, heavy weeded waters we call moose pasture.
This isn't because we geezers are paddling fast; it's the laminar flow of the water as it clings to the surface of the blade first being lifted, then swung through the stroke. There's likely a half cup of water, maybe a bit more, washing back down the blade as it lifts out of the water.
As the end of the paddle rises, the water gains speed and often simply overpasses common drip rings and continues down the shaft. Surface tension makes it cling to the shaft, and it takes a violent interruption to make it break its hold. That's why Joey's cup - that should actually stop, contain, and finally dump that half cup of fluid - is such a breakthrough.
But, it has to be far enough back up the shaft so it doesan't tangle in weeds if paddling in gunky, heavy weeded waters we call moose pasture.
You could take a piece of a foam pool noodle. Sand, carve or cut a concave shape into one end. Drill a hole (or enlarge the existing one, depending on the noodle design) to fit the paddle shaft.
Then if you have a one peice paddle cut a slit on one side of the foam, Slide it on the shaft and the glue the slit back together to make it snugger and hold it on (dont glue it to the paddle shaft). You could also use those vecro wraps to attach it. If you have a two piece, just slide it on the shaft.
Aerodynamic its not, but it would offer a little bit extra flotation if you dont use a paddle leash. Easily replaced, removed and cheap.
I am just offering suggestions, the drip rings the come with my paddles all work just fine for me.
DM
mike
Then if you have a one peice paddle cut a slit on one side of the foam, Slide it on the shaft and the glue the slit back together to make it snugger and hold it on (dont glue it to the paddle shaft). You could also use those vecro wraps to attach it. If you have a two piece, just slide it on the shaft.
Aerodynamic its not, but it would offer a little bit extra flotation if you dont use a paddle leash. Easily replaced, removed and cheap.
I am just offering suggestions, the drip rings the come with my paddles all work just fine for me.
DM
mike
I found that if you don't use the paddle like a push pole or paddle with it so you look like a wind mill in a hurricane the water drips off out side of the boat. Another good reason for a longer paddle , this way the drip rings can be a short distance up the shaft from the blade.
If you keep the paddle low the little drip rings will have the greater majority of the water dripping outside the boat. They are making some paddles today that the blade of the paddle doubles as a drip area for the water , ( here's the key to making that work) providing the shaft is not submerged.
Another good way to beat the drip , use a single blade paddle. :roll:
I have to agree with DM , mine works good for me.
Chuck.
If you keep the paddle low the little drip rings will have the greater majority of the water dripping outside the boat. They are making some paddles today that the blade of the paddle doubles as a drip area for the water , ( here's the key to making that work) providing the shaft is not submerged.
Another good way to beat the drip , use a single blade paddle. :roll:
I have to agree with DM , mine works good for me.
Chuck.
i say bring a towel with you or just jump in the water and get wet before you start, then a drop of water ant no big thing. have a nice day. later keith
DM, that foam pool noodle is the very first thing I tried-- the one I used was even blue. I couldn't get it hollowed out enough to hold as much drip as it needed to and being a shallow depression, it started dumping water sooner on the next stroke. I did slit it on one side to make it a retrofit on a solid shaft. I kind of put that design on the back burner when I went to the milk jug plastic. I was able to get a longer, lower profile cap with a larger volume to contain the water and delay dumping the drip until it could clear the boat. I really haven't field tested it yet. I was sick a couple of days this week and don't have enough time after work. I'll try this weekend and post the results.
Might be " too much sugar for a dime" as we say around here, but if it solves my "problem" it will be worth it.
Just occurred to me, but how did the Inuits contend with the drips? We're talking about hours to days of paddling in sub-freezing temps. I know they used animal skin mittens, but it seems like they would get wet and frozen after a while.
Joey
Might be " too much sugar for a dime" as we say around here, but if it solves my "problem" it will be worth it.
Just occurred to me, but how did the Inuits contend with the drips? We're talking about hours to days of paddling in sub-freezing temps. I know they used animal skin mittens, but it seems like they would get wet and frozen after a while.
Joey
Well Joey thinks I've fallen into deep water with no PFD. I'll let those who care decide.
http://dragonflycanoe.com/vaux1894/part2.htm
Read down to "Drip Cups":
The beginner will find that the water from the blades will run down the round of the paddle to the hands. This is caused by raising the paddle at too great an angle at each stroke. The drip can be prevented by putting drip cups on the round of the paddle just above the blade at each end. The best drip cup is made by cutting the nipple off a rubber breast shield and slipping the round of the paddle through the hole thus made. These breast shields can be bought at any drug store. An experienced paddler needs no drip cup to keep his hands dry.
http://dragonflycanoe.com/vaux1894/part2.htm
Read down to "Drip Cups":
The beginner will find that the water from the blades will run down the round of the paddle to the hands. This is caused by raising the paddle at too great an angle at each stroke. The drip can be prevented by putting drip cups on the round of the paddle just above the blade at each end. The best drip cup is made by cutting the nipple off a rubber breast shield and slipping the round of the paddle through the hole thus made. These breast shields can be bought at any drug store. An experienced paddler needs no drip cup to keep his hands dry.
Yes,
It is all about stroke cadence and the height at which the paddle is held.
Speed up the cadence and hold the shaft lower and the centrefical (sp) force will eliminate most of the paddle drips.
hairymick said:
Yeah, Mick, I'm realizing that the cadence has a lot to do with it. I noticed when I did a couple of high speed sprints the drips weren't a problem. At cruising speed, I now just hesitate a second or two at the horizontal and most of the water drops off before the next stroke begins. Still learning.
hmmmm....when I used to kayak I had a 2 piece paddle. I slipped large diameter o-rings on eache end . Cheap and worked like a charm, never saw the need for cups and such
I saw your drip cups, (brilliant!!), and while at a local box store, I came acrossed a rubber roof flashing that was for 1-1/8 to 1-1/4" stacks coming out of a roof.
I bought two of them and cut the flat part off the coned area with a utility knife.
The doggone things worked great until I had to "dig in" and get a new direction going quickly.
I'm interested in keeping water off me because of my latitude, not my attitude.
It's getting real "fall-like" here, and I'd like to cruise during the leaf changing season. :wink:
Lee
I bought two of them and cut the flat part off the coned area with a utility knife.
The doggone things worked great until I had to "dig in" and get a new direction going quickly.
I'm interested in keeping water off me because of my latitude, not my attitude.
It's getting real "fall-like" here, and I'd like to cruise during the leaf changing season. :wink:
Lee