Width and height question

[funbun]

I'm already thinking about things I want to try with my next pirogue. If I reduce the width by say ten inches, how much more height do I add to make up for the difference in capacity? How would I even figure this out?

I know this would be unstable but I plan to add an outrigger. I figure if the outrigger adds stability why not make the main hull as sleak as possible to reduce drag? Higher sides would make it easier for an indirect attachment to the ama anyway. Just kicking some ideas.


I've got a couple pictures of my current build that I'll post later today.

 

[oldsparkey]

If you reduce the top width by 10 inches then the top ( normally 31 inches) would be only 21 inches and the bottom ( normally 24 inches) at 14 inches. :shock:

You would have to add a lot of height since more of the boat would be in the water and end up defeating what you want to do. A shallow water boat for recreation and fishing.

Personally I would not attempt it but if you felling like trying it ..... Good Luck and you will really need that outrigger.

Chuck.

 

[seedtick]

A quick approximation of displacement for your pirogue is to look at it as if it were two triangles with the base of each triangle at the center.

For example, a pirogue that is 2 feet wide and 14 feet long would be considered as two triangles each having a 2 foot base and a 7 foot height. The area of a triangle is one half of the product of the base times the height. The area of each triangle would then be 1/2 X 2 X 7 which equals 7 square feet. Since you have two triangles (the front half and the back half of the boat) the total area for displacement is 14 square feet.

This is only a rough approximation as your pirogue is not exactly two triangles and as you load it the flare in the sides increase the displacement, i.e. the "triangles get larger".

 

[Kayak Jack]

Funbun, if you want a sleek hull, scrap the flat bottomed stuff and go to a semi-rounded hull configuration. You will have less drag and a smoother ride.

 

[funbun]

Funbun, if you want a sleek hull, scrap the flat bottomed stuff and go to a semi-rounded hull configuration. You will have less drag and a smoother ride.

Yeah, I thought about that too, going with a strip plank Hawaiian style canoe or something. There are so many things to do.

Let me ask you this, with a flat bottom design can you make separating hull design? That way no part is more than 8 feet long. That would fit much easier into my apartment than a big 16 foot hull.

 

[Kayak Jack]

You can make any hull design separable. Just ask the guys who made the Titanic.

If you make one that dissembles, break it into three, rather than two pieces. The ends will not be symmetrical; one will be longer. The shorter stem end fits inside the longer, and they both fit inside the mid section. This takes a little cogitating. Don't try to make it a glove fit. Leave a couple inches of extra room so they fit easily. You're liable to be doing this by yourself without another pair of hands.

The ones I've seen had about a 3" rim around the inside edges of all splits. This should be stout plywood. There has to be a watertight seal in between, and stout, but simple, bolts fastening it together. Large wing nuts work nicely here.

I'd also want some alignment pins to ensure he ends were properly rigged, and stayed that way. Go take a look at the pins on your dining room table, where it slides apart to insert an extra leaf. It's a proven design, use it.