Stitch & Glue (tie wraps vs. copper wire)

[swampwood]

I have only used copper wire and drill 1/16" holes. I run my fillets down the seam and over the wire. After it cures I have no problem pulling the wires out. Even though all the plans say to not cover the wires, because they are hard to pull. Not true Or maybe it depends on the epoxy you use!
I know some people use plastic ties. What is suppose to be the advantage? Besides "faster".

 

[oldsparkey]

I use the copper wire on all of my boats.

I hold the seams together with them and then run a small bead of epoxy along them skipping the area where they are. When that epoxy cures then I remove the wires and run a bead of epoxy where they were.

Next step is to go back and brush about a 2 or 2 1/2 inch strip along the seams with epoxy. I let it cure then do a light sanding and put my tape down for the fillets. The epoxy saturated wood lets the tape be removed without pulling any wood with it.

I like the copper wires since the holes are only 1/16th of an inch and the epoxy when I saturate the boat before glassing it fills the holes.

Chuck.......

 

[tx river rat]

I have used both and they both will work. My choice for the plastic ties is part personal and part practical.
I have a thumb that has been blown off and doesnt work to well so the plastic ties are much easier to handle. I had a problem with the small wire tearing into the wood if you put to much pressure on them the wider plastic just has a softer and bigger foot print, I also found it much easier to get a good fill when filling the holes with
larger holes for the ties.
Ron

 

[swampwood]

Thanks guys,
I can see that there could be a problem using the wires in soft lumber. I have only stich & glued plywood.
But I leave the wires in and glue the seams over them and pull the wires out after the epoxy cures.

 

[woodchips]

I've used the cheep Harbor Freight 0.020 wire, in 1/32nd holes, placed 3/4 " in from the edge without any real problems. But I got tired of drilling all the holes and twistng wires.
So, here is another method to throw into the conversation.
I've been using 1/2 " long staples.
1st cut your bottom true. Temporary screw it to the frames and stems. Lightly weigh the rest down with some 2x4 scraps. Then with the stapler set to minimum power, and not pressing down hard, use your hand to hold the side pushed out to proper alignment ( keep fingers clear of danger ) shoot through the bottom and into the side, aligned with the angle of the side. Don’t let the staple purchase flush, for easy removal with a small pry bar. With a little practice the staple won't show inside or outside. Shoot one approximately every 4".
No drilling, no twisting, and they pull out clean. Sometimes pulling broken ones with needle nose.

 

[Kayak Jack]

I buy el-cheapo stove pipe wire at the local hardware store (same place where I buy my post holes :wink: ). Stove pipe wire is a blued, soft, steel wire used for hanging stovepipes. It will cut into the wood if you twist it too much.

I use safety wire pliers for the twisting (Harbor Freight specials). I've always laid the epoxy over the wires in an evening, and pull the wires the next morning after breakfast. (Wires come out easier if you eat oatmeal for breakfast - eating bacon and eggs will make epoxy stick to wires really bad. :wink Now, though, I'll lay epoxy only in between the wires (and eat bacon and eggs - maybe even some hashbrowns - for breakfast :wink: )

All the above is serious, except where set aside with parentheses, and annotated with a :wink:

 

[swampwood]

I've used the cheep Harbor Freight 0.020 wire, in 1/32nd holes, placed 3/4 " in from the edge without any real problems. But I got tired of drilling all the holes and twistng wires.
So, here is another method to throw into the conversation.
I've been using 1/2 " long staples.
1st cut your bottom true. Temporary screw it to the frames and stems. Lightly weigh the rest down with some 2x4 scraps. Then with the stapler set to minimum power, and not pressing down hard, use your hand to hold the side pushed out to proper alignment ( keep fingers clear of danger ) shoot through the bottom and into the side, aligned with the angle of the side. Don’t let the staple purchase flush, for easy removal with a small pry bar. With a little practice the staple won't show inside or outside. Shoot one approximately every 4".
No drilling, no twisting, and they pull out clean. Sometimes pulling broken ones with needle nose.

Ron,
The staples might work better in the soft wood you use?

 

[woodchips]

Yea Ron, I have only stapled on two pirogues, and yes both of those were luan. But it did work fine.

 

[tx river rat]

The staples are brads work great on a 3 panel (perow) or 4 panel outside of the bottom but on the center seam of a 4 panel or 5 panel up there is to much angle for the staples to work.
Woodchips I have built some good boats out of luan and used poly on them also.
Ron

 

[tx river rat]

Wound up tacking out with a hot glue gun ,worked pretty well so far.
Ron