Kayak Jack said:
Yup, sorta like the difference between them little homemade boats you have and a real one. :lol:
Sheridan Blue Streak 1972 , vintage , question
- Thread starter oldsparkey
- Start date
Yup, sorta like the difference between them little homemade boats you have and a real one. :lol:
Tom @ Buzzard Bluff said:
I resemble that (those) remark s.
Sure is a good thing that this one is complete.
MrClampit said:
I figured out a long time ago that if you ever let Jack get one up on you that you were gonna be in deep caca from then on. :wink:
I may have missed it...but I have lost my manual. My Silver Streak model C still works...what oil should I use.
My first one, a circa 1960 Blue streak with williams peep sight needs work(will send it to Bryan and company). It was a good squirrel gun.
Daddy taught me to head shoot, "Squirrel ain't got much meat, and I ain't gonna spit out the shot!"
Martin_Taylor
a packrat that lost something......
My first one, a circa 1960 Blue streak with williams peep sight needs work(will send it to Bryan and company). It was a good squirrel gun.
Daddy taught me to head shoot, "Squirrel ain't got much meat, and I ain't gonna spit out the shot!"
Martin_Taylor
a packrat that lost something......
Martin_Taylor said:
From my original answer to 'Theresa:
<The very BEST thing you can do to keep that veteran cheerful into a dependable old age is get a small bottle of 'Crosman Oil' from Crosman and, either once per box of pellets or once a year, place a SINGLE drop of oil on each of the 3 pivot points in the pump linkage. Do NOT put any oil in front of the pump piston. >
Ron Sauls will have the Crosman oil or something just as good that he can send when he returns your gun if you will ask. In emergency you can use ATF or a NON_DETERGENT 30 wt. motor oil if you can find it. Under NO CIRCUMSTANCES should you ever use a normal detergent type of motor oil or 'household' oil as they eat seals. And that means nowhere on the gun for they seem to be able to migrate like Salmon, surmounting any obstacle to reach the seals. Better to use the gun squeeky dry until you can get the right lube than to use something that will destroy it's ability to pump and hold. Tom
Edit P.S.: WD-40 is the 'Great Satan' to airguns. Don't even allow the two to inhabit the same room! In truth it is the same with firearms. WD-40 is NOT a lubricant! It is a penetrant and the residues left behind turn into a gum that gets ever thicker and stickier over time. It is what allows gunsmiths to send their children to the best universities. :wink:
Wish I had a $buck for every buck that hasn't been bagged because the firing pin on a WD-40 'lubed' gun fell too slowly to 'light the cap' on a frosty morn.
Thanks
Thanks for the info...had some Fishing reel lubricant in a tube (looks like 30 wt LOL) Thanks also to Tom Anderson for pointing me to the pellet source...I had forgotten about the Beeman .20 cal pellets at Straightshooter.com)
I found some one time when I was on a weekend trip down to see my Daddy in Alabama. The pointy ones were dead on I think they were the Beeman Silver Stings.
My Silver Streak C was never as accurate as my old Blue Streak. Have used "extreme predjudice" many a rabbit, squirrel, raccoons, and possums. The latter work well if you can get under them a go up through the throat (down the tree the fall.)
Later
Thanks for the info...had some Fishing reel lubricant in a tube (looks like 30 wt LOL) Thanks also to Tom Anderson for pointing me to the pellet source...I had forgotten about the Beeman .20 cal pellets at Straightshooter.com)
I found some one time when I was on a weekend trip down to see my Daddy in Alabama. The pointy ones were dead on I think they were the Beeman Silver Stings.
My Silver Streak C was never as accurate as my old Blue Streak. Have used "extreme predjudice" many a rabbit, squirrel, raccoons, and possums. The latter work well if you can get under them a go up through the throat (down the tree the fall.)
Later
I have a Sheridan "Blue Streak" that I purchased when I returned from Nam in 1969 to control the squirrel and rabbit population around my home. Not looking for the value because I still use it and am not looking to sell so don’t really care what its worth to anyone else. What I would like to know is what the number stamped on the breach means?
The number I’m referring to is stamped into the breech on the left side. The number is 3691H.
On the story telling side of things, this fine little pump up has put alot of meat in the pot back when I was eating what I killed. Sad to say, now it’s just used to dispatch the troublesome squirrels that try to get into the house. This wife won’t have anything to do with what she calls rodents. Will add here that they don’t go to waste, as the hawks seem to know when I shoot one and in no time, there is one carrying off a meal.
I’ve read alot of talk about the type of pellets used, FPS, POI, scopes, and peep sights. I’ve never had the pleasure of taking alot of time out on some shooting range sighting this in. Did put a BB gun target up on a tree at about 25 yds out when I first got it and after a bit of tweaking, found I could hit the bull 9 out of 10 times. Haven’t changed the sights since. I used to use pellets, now I use Haendler & Natermann 5.00mm-.20cal graphite coated round balls because I can get a tin of 500 for about $12.00(ok, I’m cheap), and the knock down power is great. I still use the open sights, and still hit squirrels out to about 30-35 yds, and 95% of the time they just go limp and fall out of the trees. (Might add here that if I hit em, and don’t kill em with one shot, I DO make sure that I don’t leave em to suffer).
As to the cleaning and oiling, never cleaned the barrel and never oiled anything, although, I do lube the pivot points every now and then with molylub, and I do keep it wiped down with an oil rag, the same as with all my guns after handling them.
Thanks,
HarleyRider
The number I’m referring to is stamped into the breech on the left side. The number is 3691H.
On the story telling side of things, this fine little pump up has put alot of meat in the pot back when I was eating what I killed. Sad to say, now it’s just used to dispatch the troublesome squirrels that try to get into the house. This wife won’t have anything to do with what she calls rodents. Will add here that they don’t go to waste, as the hawks seem to know when I shoot one and in no time, there is one carrying off a meal.
I’ve read alot of talk about the type of pellets used, FPS, POI, scopes, and peep sights. I’ve never had the pleasure of taking alot of time out on some shooting range sighting this in. Did put a BB gun target up on a tree at about 25 yds out when I first got it and after a bit of tweaking, found I could hit the bull 9 out of 10 times. Haven’t changed the sights since. I used to use pellets, now I use Haendler & Natermann 5.00mm-.20cal graphite coated round balls because I can get a tin of 500 for about $12.00(ok, I’m cheap), and the knock down power is great. I still use the open sights, and still hit squirrels out to about 30-35 yds, and 95% of the time they just go limp and fall out of the trees. (Might add here that if I hit em, and don’t kill em with one shot, I DO make sure that I don’t leave em to suffer).
As to the cleaning and oiling, never cleaned the barrel and never oiled anything, although, I do lube the pivot points every now and then with molylub, and I do keep it wiped down with an oil rag, the same as with all my guns after handling them.
Thanks,
HarleyRider
<What I would like to know is what the number stamped on the breach means? The number I’m referring to is stamped into the breech on the left side. The number is 3691H.>
The # you see is the year of inspection--written backwards---for all practical purposes the same as the year it was manufactured. The H signifies that it was inspected in Aug. if I counted the letters from A (for Jan) to H properly.
But---we have a slight problem. IIRC they didn't start doing that until 1964. So get a good light and a magnifying glass and see if what you think is a 3 is actually a lightly stamped 8. That would make far more sense both from the standpoint of the date they began the practice as well as the year you bought it as a new gun. They didn't start serial numbering the guns until 1972.
<I’ve read alot of talk about the type of pellets used, FPS, POI, scopes, and peep sights. I’ve never had the pleasure of taking alot of time out on some shooting range sighting this in. Did put a BB gun target up on a tree at about 25 yds out when I first got it and after a bit of tweaking, found I could hit the bull 9 out of 10 times. Haven’t changed the sights since. I used to use pellets, now I use Haendler & Natermann 5.00mm-.20cal graphite coated round balls because I can get a tin of 500 for about $12.00(ok, I’m cheap), and the knock down power is great. I still use the open sights, and still hit squirrels out to about 30-35 yds, and 95% of the time they just go limp and fall out of the trees. (Might add here that if I hit em, and don’t kill em with one shot, I DO make sure that I don’t leave em to suffer).>
Bite the bullet and buy a box of the waisted 14.3 grain pellets Crosman makes for the Sheridans. If your gun is consistent with every other Model C I've ever tested you should see a quantum leap in accuracy although you will almost surely hafta re-sight it.
<As to the cleaning and oiling, never cleaned the barrel and never oiled anything, although, I do lube the pivot points every now and then with molylub, and I do keep it wiped down with an oil rag, the same as with all my guns after handling them.>
See my diatribe on the subject here: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=4572 In a nutshell use a drop of either (in order of preference) Crosman oil, Daisy oil or 30 wt.NON-DETERGENT motoroil on each pump pivot point once every box of ammo or once a year if you don't shoot it that much annually. I'm a big fan of moly myself but I don't WANT it in the innards of a pneumatic! And if you put it on the pump pivots it WILL wind up inside eventually. That migration is why you should never introduce oil in front of the piston---the innards will receive all they need from migration of the pivot oil.
The # you see is the year of inspection--written backwards---for all practical purposes the same as the year it was manufactured. The H signifies that it was inspected in Aug. if I counted the letters from A (for Jan) to H properly.
But---we have a slight problem. IIRC they didn't start doing that until 1964. So get a good light and a magnifying glass and see if what you think is a 3 is actually a lightly stamped 8. That would make far more sense both from the standpoint of the date they began the practice as well as the year you bought it as a new gun. They didn't start serial numbering the guns until 1972.
<I’ve read alot of talk about the type of pellets used, FPS, POI, scopes, and peep sights. I’ve never had the pleasure of taking alot of time out on some shooting range sighting this in. Did put a BB gun target up on a tree at about 25 yds out when I first got it and after a bit of tweaking, found I could hit the bull 9 out of 10 times. Haven’t changed the sights since. I used to use pellets, now I use Haendler & Natermann 5.00mm-.20cal graphite coated round balls because I can get a tin of 500 for about $12.00(ok, I’m cheap), and the knock down power is great. I still use the open sights, and still hit squirrels out to about 30-35 yds, and 95% of the time they just go limp and fall out of the trees. (Might add here that if I hit em, and don’t kill em with one shot, I DO make sure that I don’t leave em to suffer).>
Bite the bullet and buy a box of the waisted 14.3 grain pellets Crosman makes for the Sheridans. If your gun is consistent with every other Model C I've ever tested you should see a quantum leap in accuracy although you will almost surely hafta re-sight it.
<As to the cleaning and oiling, never cleaned the barrel and never oiled anything, although, I do lube the pivot points every now and then with molylub, and I do keep it wiped down with an oil rag, the same as with all my guns after handling them.>
See my diatribe on the subject here: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=4572 In a nutshell use a drop of either (in order of preference) Crosman oil, Daisy oil or 30 wt.NON-DETERGENT motoroil on each pump pivot point once every box of ammo or once a year if you don't shoot it that much annually. I'm a big fan of moly myself but I don't WANT it in the innards of a pneumatic! And if you put it on the pump pivots it WILL wind up inside eventually. That migration is why you should never introduce oil in front of the piston---the innards will receive all they need from migration of the pivot oil.
Tom..
I wanted to make sure all your wisdom could be accessed so when the link you had , had a problem ... I fixed it for quick reference , hope you don't mind. Plus if I'm ever in Arkansas again I was thinking that might stop you from taking a shot at me or beating me with one of your fly rods. More then likely taking a shot at me unless we end up on a stream fishing. You know those ones Bear likes to paddle where no boat should ever go. :lol:
Chuck.
I wanted to make sure all your wisdom could be accessed so when the link you had , had a problem ... I fixed it for quick reference , hope you don't mind. Plus if I'm ever in Arkansas again I was thinking that might stop you from taking a shot at me or beating me with one of your fly rods. More then likely taking a shot at me unless we end up on a stream fishing. You know those ones Bear likes to paddle where no boat should ever go. :lol:
Chuck.
oldsparkey said:
Suits me fine Chuck---thanx for the help.
And we hardly ever shoot at Sheriffs anymore in the Ozarks---even retired deputies. Now Revenooers-------------------
[quote="Tom @ Buzzard Bluff
The # you see is the year of inspection--written backwards---for all practical purposes the same as the year it was manufactured. The H signifies that it was inspected in Aug. if I counted the letters from A (for Jan) to H properly.
But---we have a slight problem. IIRC they didn't start doing that until 1964. So get a good light and a magnifying glass and see if what you think is a 3 is actually a lightly stamped 8. That would make far more sense both from the standpoint of the date they began the practice as well as the year you bought it as a new gun. They didn't start serial numbering the guns until 1972.[/quote]
I appreciate your input, and you are right on about the number, 8691H. And from what I've read of your posts, you are probably right about the lube, so I will stop using the moly, and start using oil.
As too changing my ammo, the cheap stuff is keeping the vicious horde at bay for now, and like I said, not looking to drive nails with it.
Have only been on here for a few hours, and have already noted some very good pointers. I will be visiting often.
HarleyRider
The # you see is the year of inspection--written backwards---for all practical purposes the same as the year it was manufactured. The H signifies that it was inspected in Aug. if I counted the letters from A (for Jan) to H properly.
But---we have a slight problem. IIRC they didn't start doing that until 1964. So get a good light and a magnifying glass and see if what you think is a 3 is actually a lightly stamped 8. That would make far more sense both from the standpoint of the date they began the practice as well as the year you bought it as a new gun. They didn't start serial numbering the guns until 1972.[/quote]
I appreciate your input, and you are right on about the number, 8691H. And from what I've read of your posts, you are probably right about the lube, so I will stop using the moly, and start using oil.
As too changing my ammo, the cheap stuff is keeping the vicious horde at bay for now, and like I said, not looking to drive nails with it.
Have only been on here for a few hours, and have already noted some very good pointers. I will be visiting often.
HarleyRider
HarleyRider said:
Thanks for letting me know---getting one right occasionally encourages me to keep trying. :wink:
HarleyRider said:
As long as what you're using makes you happy-------------just a suggestion.
HarleyRider said:
It gets slow at times---just check in occasionally to see if anything interesting has came up. And Welcome Aboard!
Er---keep your hip boots handy---sometimes it gets deep.
TomTom @ Buzzard Bluff said:
How 'bout Constables? Do I get a pass, or do I need to watch real close if I ever manage to get up that way? :?
Mind ya, I ain't no danged revenuer.........
Mike
Tom @ Buzzard Bluff said:HarleyRider said:I appreciate your input, and you are right on about the number, 8691H.>
Thanks for letting me know---getting one right occasionally encourages me to keep trying. :wink:
<As too changing my ammo, the cheap stuff is keeping the vicious horde at bay for now, and like I said, not looking to drive nails with it.>
As long as what you're using makes you happy-------------just a suggestion.
<Have only been on here for a few hours, and have already noted some very good pointers. I will be visiting often.>
It gets slow at times---just check in occasionally to see if anything interesting has came up. And Welcome Aboard!
Er---keep your hip boots handy---sometimes it gets deep.
Just a quick update. I have a very cheap made in China scope that I had laying around, and a mound that I had on my Blue Streak at one time, so I put it on and dug out a tin of Crow Magnum Diabolos, again made by H & N. Happened to be the only skirted pellets I had. Benched the gun and put 5 rounds of skirted and 5 rounds of ball thru it to check the scope. This was from about 50’. Tacked a target up to a tree out back and measured it at 64’. Standing and resting my forearm hand against a door jamb. 5 rounds of skirted had a spread of 1 3/4”. 5 rounds of ball had a spread of 1”. I could cover 4 of the ball shots with a quarter. Now, I’m thinking it’s probably the H & N skirted stuff that’s the problem, (wouldn't want to blame myself), and that’s why I still have a partial tin of it. Oh, and I was using 6 pumps with each shot as that’s what I use when I am shooting squirrels.
From all I’ve been able to read in the last week about ammo, I will have to bow to your expertise and say that you are right on the money when it comes to the right pellet for the right gun, and I’m sure, given the right pellets, I could probably get a group that I could cover with a dime.
Again, this was just a quick set up to see what I could do, and in no means meant to disparage any of your excellent advice, of which I have already started using.
Harley Rider
Bilgerat said:
You oughta be safe-----'specially if your fishing or hunting. The folks here understand that. As a matter of fact I just came back inside. Been sitting on the deck talking with one of the pro level poachers of the area. He came up to glass the place across the river below the bluff and listen for turkeys going to roost. I'll get a a turkey breast or two delivered before too long. :wink:
HarleyRider said:
HR,
My experience with the Crow Magnums parallel your own. There's no doubt that they expand better than any other pellet IF you have a gun that will shoot them accurately. So far I haven't found one that can even come close to tolerating them much less shoot them at the standard of accuracy I demand.
Edit: BTW----that's outstanding accuracy at that distance from lead balls. You must have lucked out and got a really good barrel on your gun. Those are the kind that tend to stay in my own collection rather than being passed on. :wink: Sure makes me wonder what your gun could do with the pellet I suggested!
Edit # 2: *&^%$#@! I intended to tell you to examine your scope mount carefully to see if it is the one that exerts a pulling force between barrel and pump tube. Some of the Sheridan mounts could actually cause separation as a result. Once separation happens the cure is usually replacement as there are few that can or will even attempt a repair and it is usually cheaper to buy a new one. You have obviously gotten one of the superior barrels that come along occasionally so it would be a real shame to ruin the gun!
Oh! Some of the Sheridans (can't recall the time frame off the top of my head :? ) had the rear sight secured by a wedge on either side They TOO can cause separation! If yours is like that get rid of it! Bite the bullet and buy one of the Williams peepsights that is made specifically for the gun from Crosman, Williams or any # of aftermarket dealers. IIRC it's less than $30 and is the ne plus ultra sighting system for the gun! Tom
Tom @ Buzzard Bluff said:HarleyRider said:Edit: BTW----that's outstanding accuracy at that distance from lead balls. You must have lucked out and got a really good barrel on your gun. Those are the kind that tend to stay in my own collection rather than being passed on. :wink: Sure makes me wonder what your gun could do with the pellet I suggested!
Perhaps one day (if I win the lotto), I'll invest in a better sighting setup and some proper pellets, and find out just what this gun can do. But for now, it's all I've got.
Take care,
Harley Rider
A little help please, I have an older Sheridan blue streak. However there is no serial # on it. On one side it says Sheridan products, Racine Wi. USA. on the other it says Blue Streag 5mm cal and thats it. Behind the rear sight between the breach there is a peice of hard rubber raised up over the barrel. What is that for? I would like to take that original sight off and replace with a williams peep. The sight looks like to me that it is pinned on. Any suggestions on how to remove this sight and do the replacement The wood on this rifle is walnut, not just hard wood. Thanks for any and all responces. Pat
<Behind the rear sight between the breach there is a piece of hard rubber raised up over the barrel. What is that for?>
That is a grip and cushion for the hand while the other hand operates the pump lever.
<The sight looks like to me that it is pinned on. Any suggestions on how to remove this sight and do the replacement>
No 'pinned' sights to my knowledge, but late model rocker safety Model Cs had rear sights that were retained by small wedges between the lower edges of the sight and the barrel/main tube juncture. It is a VERY good idea to get rid of this sight! On a small percentage using that sight retention system the wedging action has caused failure of the solder joint between barrel and tube. To remove use a block of wood between the rear sight blade and hammer and as gently as possible tap the sight off towards the front. I've encountered a few that resisted movement but patience and a bigger hammer has worked in every instance.
That is a grip and cushion for the hand while the other hand operates the pump lever.
<The sight looks like to me that it is pinned on. Any suggestions on how to remove this sight and do the replacement>
No 'pinned' sights to my knowledge, but late model rocker safety Model Cs had rear sights that were retained by small wedges between the lower edges of the sight and the barrel/main tube juncture. It is a VERY good idea to get rid of this sight! On a small percentage using that sight retention system the wedging action has caused failure of the solder joint between barrel and tube. To remove use a block of wood between the rear sight blade and hammer and as gently as possible tap the sight off towards the front. I've encountered a few that resisted movement but patience and a bigger hammer has worked in every instance.