Power Yak by Glen-L (next Adventure)

[swampwood]

Planning to start this boat before long.
It is 16-10", 37" beam, 7'-6"cockpit.
http://www.glen-l.com/designs/special/poweryak.html
But I plan to modify it a little bit.
Make it lighter
Put the trolling motor in a tunnel (even with the bottom)
Designer cypress strip top
Should be alot lighter than designed and will be able to paddle easy or power when needed.

 

[Kayak Jack]

That's a heavy boat, and when you add a lead-acid battery it will gain a LOT more. Keep us posted?

 

[swampwood]

Jack,
waterline with 500lbs. is suppose to be 3 1/2" at there design weight.
Hope to at least cut 30lbs. off the design. That would be shooting for 80lbs. finished.
Think it is possible? Give me you'lls suggestions. I am open "minded"!!!!!!!!

 

[Kayak Jack]

Without seeing a lot more, I wouldn't want to usurp your ideas for lightening the boat. As you preview the plans, and set about building it, you will likely see other areas of opportunity.

 

[seedtick]

i like their caveat about not being able to make the boat shorter or longer and not changing the width

They obviously aren't in the real world

 

[swampwood]

i like their caveat about not being able to make the boat shorter or longer and not changing the width

They obviously aren't in the real world

I quess that works for most people anyway. I am scared.

 

[swampwood]

This is the material list to build by design.
I see alot of opportunity to lighten the boat and still make it a good looking boat.
ITEM MATERIAL NO. PCs. SIZE
Breasthook Mahog 1 1" X 6" X 7"
Sheer Mahog 2 1"x5/8"x17' 6"
Deck beams #8 & #9 Sp or Mahog makes both 1"x51/2"x 32"
Deck beams #10, #11, & #12 Mahog makes all 1" x 5" x 32"
Carling Mahog 2 1" x11/4"x 13'
Aft end of cockpit beam Mahog 1 1" x 2" x 2'
Longi top cleat Mahog 2 1" x 1" x 9'
Aft deck strongback Sp 1 1"x 3/4"x 2'
Clamp at cockpit Sp 2 1/2"x 2 1/2"x 8'
Clamp at hatch Sp 2 1/2"x 2 1/2"x 4'
Clamp at #8 & #9 Sp makes both 1/2"x 3" x 3'
Cockpit coaming #18 Mahog makes both 1" x 6" x 8'
Spray shield Mahog makes both 1" x 5" x 30"
Hatch coaming/frame Mahog makes both 1"x 1 1/2"x 4'
Hatch beams Mahog makes both
Hatch battens Mahog makes both 1" x 3/4" x 7'
Seat ledge S-2 Mahog makes four 1" x 3" x 18"
Seat brackets #16 (B-2) Mahog makes eight 1" x 2" x 4'

 

[Kayak Jack]

Not sure how you'd feel about it, but changing "Mahaog" to read "spruce" would be a start in weight reduction, I'd think.

 

[swampwood]

I do not plan to use any mahog, except spray shield.
I am thinking about using 4mm Marine instead of the 1/4.
Using 9mm & 12mm marine instead of most of the mahog.
Using cypress for the carlins, sheers and top strips instead of 1/4" plywood.
Glass outside with 6oz. and inside with 4oz cloth.
Hopefully I will be looking at 70-80lbs. when finished vs 110lbs.

 

[Kayak Jack]

Sounds good. I much prefer to glass inside for strength and resistance to splitting and rupture if the bottom gets up onto an obstacle. I've had much better luck with a loose weave glass than a tight weave.

 

[WDfrmTN]

i like their caveat about not being able to make the boat shorter or longer and not changing the width

They obviously aren't in the real world

Actually, they are...the real world of sleazy lawyers and stupid litigation. For "amateur built" plans, CYA is the best way to go. Glen-L has been around a long, long, time.

 

[swampwood]

i like their caveat about not being able to make the boat shorter or longer and not changing the width

They obviously aren't in the real world

Actually, they are...the real world of sleazy lawyers and stupid litigation. For "amateur built" plans, CYA is the best way to go. Glen-L has been around a long, long, time.

What does CYA mean :?:

 

[Kayak Jack]

What does CYA mean :?:

Cover Your Arse

 

[swampwood]

Thanks Jack.
Brain is not moving fast this morning.

 

[Kayak Jack]

Always glad to help out a fellow traveler in this vale of tears.

 

[swampwood]

Received the plans today and started looking over them.
So far I see lots of ways to cut down on the weight without sacrificing strength.
Trying to figure out how to install the trolling motor and keep it higher than the bottom of the boat? They have it way below the bottom of the boat.

 

[JEM]

You mean like retractable? Or off the back?

 

[woodman]

The prop will suck air if not totally submerged...Their is no alternative but have the motor below the surface of the hull... You will need a quick and easy way to raise it to avoid shallow rocks etc...

Adding remote steering to a clamp-on troling motor
http://www.glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... 18&start=0

 

[swampwood]

My idea is to incorporate the motor into the hull.
Thinking of installing the motor in a tube (pvc pipe), even with the bottom or stightly below, and using kayak rudder to steer it. It would have a water pickup in the forward end of the tube.
I like the steath mood. The only way you would be able to tell it is motor powered is the hole coming out the back of the hull.
My question is will I work? :!:

 

[Kayak Jack]

Swampwood, email me a sketch of your proposed setup so I can better understand it? [email protected]