JEM TV 12 32 Build

[oldbuffpilot]

JEM TV 12 32 Build
First of all thanks for posting your SS&G builds, they gave me the confidence and know how to get started. Also I appreciate the great replies to my specific questions as I was getting started. Several of the techniques I will try to picture are already somewhere in this forum, if they work good for me, I will pass them on again to make them easier for newcomers to find. If any of you see something wrong or I’m doing something the hard way, please let me know.

I started out by cutting my basic templates out of Luan. At least two of you had suggested using OSB or MDF templates if the router was to be used for final cut out of the strip panels. That’s good advice; my practice router cuts on Luan went real good until the bearing slipped over the 5 mm luan. I won’t try the router method on the cedar strip panels using the luan templates. I do think the router would work good with thicker templates, I used it some to cut out templates along the batten. I did discover that 7/16 OSB at Home Depot is NOT a full 4’ X 8’.

Finally working on an inside table! Looks a lot like Jacks suggestions!
Bottom template.


I used a 5/16” board to set the “fence” on the rip jig for my skill saw. This picture of the bottom is the second jig ½”ply, the first was made of 3/4 “ ply. It worked good practicing on a pine 2x4 but the blade wouldn’t reach deep enough when I changed plans to 2x 6 rough cut. The plan for lumber was 8’ 2x6, but I happened on 2, 2x6 x 14’ rough cut boards. They made 30, .31” strips, enough for the basic boat. I screwed some sacrificial support to the underside of my table to help support the 2x 6 off the edge. Then probably went overboard when I drilled the 2x 6 and fastened it to the table with a finish nail in the corner at each end—but it was stable.
I had two surprises with the ripping. First even though the blade edge was 5/16 from the fence, the cut off strips were about .02” narrower. They were also very slightly wider at the starting end of the board. The starting width didn’t become noticeable until I was about through ripping the 2x6. I’ve experimented on scrap and still haven’t figured out why the strips start out thicker the first 2’ of the rip cut. Anyone else have this problem? Ideas? The planner will take care of the variation.

Skill saw jig

Ripping set up

Ripping


The new DW 734 planner, Works great. I had to build a cart out of scrap to wheel it in and out of the shed. My trusty $10 digital caliper from Harbor freight has been good enough to keep track of strip widths as I cut and practiced planning. Ron is right start with wider strips than you need.
Harbor Freight Special

DW 734


Gluing the bottom panels in two pieces so they will be narrow enough go through the planer. I didn’t plane these before gluing, because I thought I’d save a step. I think I will plane the side strips down some to make clamping more uniform. Any of you have opinions about planning some thickness down before gluing?

Bottom tracing

Gluing Bottom inside

Gluing Bottom outside

Glue Bottle guide works good


More when there’s progress. Looks like tomorrow will be too cold for glue.

Good Fish’n
Andy

 

[beekeeper]

JEM TV 12 32 Build
They were also very slightly wider at the starting end of the board. The starting width didn’t become noticeable until I was about through ripping the 2x6. I’ve experimented on scrap and still haven’t figured out why the strips start out thicker the first 2’ of the rip cut. Anyone else have this problem? Ideas? The planner will take care of the variation.
Andy

I would guess a larger/longer base, and or rail/guide you made for the circular saw would assure you the saw is aligned before cutting into the board. It might be that the saw is not approaching the board straight and only starts to cut parallel after the guide is in full contact with the board.

Question; Will the wider than 3/4" strips you are using bend to the shape of the panel's contour (edges), or are you making "boards" that the panels will be traced onto and then cut out?

beekeeper

 

[Kayak Jack]

Andy, did a decimal get misplaced? 0.020" is something most folks need a micrometer or feeler gauges to measure. When I worked on small, air cooled engines, my eyeballs were nearly calibrated to adjust breaker points to twenty thousandths unaided. No longer.

 

[oldbuffpilot]

I Know Jack. It’s not enough to matter. A few months ago Mike reminded me “perfect is the enemy of good”, and he’s absolutely right. I didn’t notice until I got to the last strip (14), the left over piece was visibly thinner on one end. But you see I’ve got this caliper left over from building the RV 9, boys and their toys! I’m having some real fun with the SS&G.
Good Fish’n

Andy

 

[oldbuffpilot]

Building has been SLOW because of the weather. The shed is just too small to get much done while the table is full of drying panels. I put a small heater and thermometer in the shed and decided it was warm enough for Tightbond as long as the heater keeps working.
Laid out the side template, weighted down and traced both sides on the paper.


Dry fit the side strips. Didn’t know if it will spring back or not, so I moved the top nails and top strip ¾” above the line. We’ll see how that works out. I just about glued the sides without plastic sheet below it. Caught the error just as I started to glue. The side panels didn’t move (spring back) when I unclamped them.


Side panel glued


The wide strips 1 5/8” were just too hard to make the tumble home bend ()at least easily.) So I ripped them in half. They bent fine, but they also straightened out (sprung back) about 1/4 “ when I removed the nails and clamps. I had allowed about ½” over so it was not a problem. Bee Keeper and Makenmend both politely warned me about the wide strips and bends. On the tumble home I changed my glue procedure and just put the glue in gaps in the prepositioned strips on the table, then clamped and nailed to the table. I think I may have used more clamping strips than necessary. I may have made work for myself.
Gluing between Tumble Home Strips

Finally had a day without rain, so I wheeled the planner out in the yard and planned the rough shaped panels to about 5mm. No pictures as I was working by myself and finished just as more rain started. It is possible by yourself, but two people would be better.

Today I heated up the shed and glued the two piece bottom panels together.
Gluing bottom pieces together


The rain is very welcome here, but has made building slow. I hope I don’t have to take this boat back to Kansas in pieces!

Good Fish’n,
Andy

 

[oldbuffpilot]

JEM TV 12 32 3rd Post

I brought the TV 12 32 to Kansas in one piece, with wet out glass coat. I am currently working on fill coats, just about ready for graphite and then varnish. So back to the Texas shed for some pictures. Bottom panels stitched together and forms placed. Used scrap 2’x 4” blocks to keep the forms upright.
2 bottom pics



Next the sides and tumblehomes stitched on. I was amazed at the perfect fit of the stitched together panels. No gaps, only needed 3 or 4 strokes with an 80 grit sanding block on one pointed end of the bottom. Matt’s plans are good! I had some trouble with the luan TV 15 32 getting consistent seams on the panels. It was my first stitch and glue—maybe it was inexperience or maybe the cedar is just easier to work .At any rate this experience has been trouble free!

Sides and tumble home pics


I glassed the inside in three pieces, first the bottom, then each side. Cut patterns from paper for each piece of glass, then tipped the boat for each side panel to let gravity work for me. This plus keeping the wet out coat thin worked great –no runs or puddles.
Inside glass cloth pattern


Inside glassed


Next was the inwales, the spacers and long strips were sanded and prefinished before installing. This worked out much better that my previous method of finishing after gluing them in. They are pretty small, time will tell if they are strong enough, the spacers and rails are ¾” wide and ¼ thick. I “pre bent” the rails shaping them like the tumble home and it made it much easier to epoxy in place. Also I routed over the edges of the rails. I didn’t do this on the TV 15 32 and carrying the sharp edge on my shoulder is literally a pain in the neck.

Rail bending

Spacers glued

Rails glued


The deck supports are still a problem for me. I need a better way to do them. Please take a look at the pictures and give me some suggestion. The open “bulkheads” also seem like over kill, but I thought I needed them to reinforce the hull and floor, maybe not?

Deck supports


Centering the dark strip in the decks made me scratch my head. I finally drilled a hole and placed a screw through the center of the dark center strips. Then pushed them into the end V of the tumble homes and pulled a line between the screws. Worked good each “arrow “ is centered. I epoxyed the decks in place with some fancy Texas clamps and then trimmed with the harbor freight multi tool.

Deck glued

Deck trimming





I then put it on the ladder rack and came home to the Flint Hills. This last picture is where it’s at now, just about done with fill coats. I may be too cautious with the fill process. I’m doing each side the top and bottom separately, turning the boat to take advantage of the flatter horizontal surface. I’m using very thin coats, with 1/8” foam roller. Takes about 4 or 5 coats to completely fill. It takes a lot of time---but I’m really happy with the results. Here is a link to the foam rollers. I cut the 7” rollers at 4” then use each piece on either a 3 or 4 inch roller.

http://www.amazon.com/Wooster-R730-7-Ro ... B00VK8DLMU

The long dry time on the fill coat process has given me time to paddle the 15 32. I’m able to keep it on a cart under the deck about 50’ from the lake. Much better than wrestling it off and on the pickup ladder rack. The TV 15 32 paddles great. It is heavier and longer than my previous pirogues, but well suited for the open lake here at the house. I can’t wait to fish from the smaller version TV 12 32.

Update JEM TV12 32 is complete. I used 6 coats of Total Boat Lust Varnish.
It paddles, no it flys through the water. Not as stable as the TV 15 32. The TV 12 32 weighs 30.2 pounds. 6 oz cloth with double in wear points.


I coud not be happier with the boat. Thanks Matt for a fine set of plans.



Goood Fish’n

Andy

 

[Kayak Jack]

Andy, nice looking work. Contact Matt with questions about details. Luan is not a consistent plywood. That's why it costs less.

 

[beekeeper]

Love the natural wood finish. Very nice work.

beekeeper

 

[JEM]

That's a keeper. Get ready to take 30 minutes longer to launch and 30 minutes to take it home... folks will want to talk to you about it.