Installing Rib Rails

[beekeeper]

How can I figure where to cut the joints for attaching the rails to the ribs. I clamped the rails to the ribs and marked each, but as the joints and ends came into position the length or the angle of the rails changed and one end became too short, causing this to happen:

Instead of this:

I apologize for not explaining this well. I know what happened. I just know how to compensate for it.

beekeeper

 

[Oyster]

I Take it that you are doing mortises on both pieces. There is actually nothing wrong if you wish to scarf in a new piece with a long scarf glued up and start over. Also always cut long, glue in place and then use a japanese saw or the likes and wack off the extra. Remember if you are using thickened epoxy, it does come in 1/4" and more thicknesses. :lol: Just install with your notches fat and gently clamp the pieces loosely in place cleaning and shaping the excess around the joined together pieces and let cure. Then when you paint the parts, its all good.

 

[beekeeper]

Oyester I did mortise both pieces. I was able to "fix" it. I just want to know how to do it correctly and not have to "fix"it.
May have just figured my own answer. If I would cut a joint in each end rib and let the rail fit in it, the middle rib joints would not have changed, correct? Is there a way to figure it with out doing this? I like the looks of the rails butted to the ribs. I guess the rail could be cut short, fitted and then a piece scarfed onto it to make it long enough. Thanks for your ideas.

beekeeper

 

[Oyster]

Oyester I did mortise both pieces. I was able to "fix" it. I just want to know how to do it correctly and not have to "fix"it.
May have just figured my own answer. If I would cut a joint in each end rib and let the rail fit in it, the middle rib joints would not have changed, correct? Is there a way to figure it with out doing this? I like the looks of the rails butted to the ribs. I guess the rail could be cut short, fitted and then a piece scarfed onto it to make it long enough. Thanks for your ideas.

beekeeper

For me personally I notch the ribs or side frame whichever you call them, if there is enough materials and enlay the solid batten inside and glue up, running a fastener into the side frame or rib. Its really a bit tricky on the length. But I normally don't worry if the ends are fat and even hang on the cap when being longer. Its a bit like wrestling a pig sometimes if you use any real hardwood to get it to spring in place and judge where your notches will end up. But I am not a fan or really tight notches since when you starve the joint you have the tendancy for water to creep in the seam without much glue if you try to fit it too good. At the ends, I of course use my trusty angle grinder after I rough in the battens to the notch and cut a bit closer and refine the ends with that tool and a24 grit disc on it.

Thats my story and I am sticking to it.

 

[seedtick]

looks like you're playing with a segment of a large diameter circle (or parabola or ellipse or some other curved entity) and trying to figure the increase in length of the segment (the rail) as the diameter or distance from the central point increases (as you inlet each rib and the rail).

When I try to think about that, i have to tie a rag around my head so it doesn't just bust open

believe i have to fall in line with Oyster - make 'em fat, fill 'em in

doesn't matter what it looks like when you're building it, just what it looks like when you're done

 

[beekeeper]

seedtick
Bet you glad I didn't call you on the phone with that one. :lol: Like I said, I knew what happened. I just didn't know how to say it. I thought you would have told me to build a scale model or do some test cuts on scrap wood.
Along those lines I think the next time I will test fit (measure & mark) a rail befor the end ribs are attached.

beekeeper

P.S. You know I,m hooked big time. I didn't hesitate when I said "next time"