Hit by the fever | Page 2 | SouthernPaddler.com

Hit by the fever

dawallace45

Well-Known Member
Mick

I user Bote-Cote epoxy from Boatcraft Pacific and with several of my boats I've put them in the water the next day after the last coat with no problem but as you say not all epoxy is the same , I like the bote-cote as it's a easy 2-1 mix and no ammine blush

David
 

hairymick

Well-Known Member
Dec 8, 2005
2,107
2
Queensland, Australia
Hi Dave,

i have heard good things about Boat Coat but never used it. thanks mate.

First and second build, I used International HT 9000 and got ammine blush on both.

Last year when I was developing an epoxy safety training package, Scott Alexander from ATL Composites (The Aussie West System Distributor) was very helpful and sent me a heap of information - no strings. I even got an email from the big kahuna of West Systems in the US offering to help :shock: again - no strings.

I figured the least I could do was to buy some West Epoxy for my next build and since then, I haven't looked back. :D Their prices are competitive, Service is exceptional and the product is way superior to anything I have used.

Not only that, but the other day, I recieved a West Systems Shirt in the mail. You beauty. :D I wear it everywhere and feel like a dog with two tails. :D :D

Robin and I are going down to the Gold Coast in a couple of weeks. I hope to call in and say G'day. :D Oh yeah, and buy more resin. :twisted: I got 3 more boats I want to build this year. :lol: :lol:
 

spikec

Member
Mar 12, 2007
24
0
Fayetteville, GA
First Sea Trial

Well, we lugged the thing down to the pond and took it out for a cruise. I say 'lugged' because it is rather heavy - I had hoped to make it light enough for the boys to single handle it to the water but it's a little too weighty for that. My fault entirely -- could have shaved some weight by angling the spacers and not adding the extra coat of epoxy.

Anyway, I love the way it handles - nice little design!. It's faster than my Stingray 12, and incredibly maneuverable. It literally turns on a dime. I had thought about adding a keel, but I don't think it's necessary. Fairly stable, and with Chuck's seat, more comfortable than the padded plastic thing. Next week I'll take it out on the reservoir where it sometimes gets a little choppy -- we'll see how it does then. Then back to sanding and varnishing.

Thanks for all the gouge you guys share with everyone here; couldn't have done it otherwise :D .
 

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
10,479
123
Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
Now that you have the experience behind you , I need to let you know something.

Using butt joints and thinner wood you can make one a lot lighter. I made one out of 1.8th inch wood , glassed and epoxy saturated all the way , inside and out at 15 1/2 feet and 32 pounds. It has a ash and cane wicker seat in it that weighs 2 pounds and 3 ounces.

Don't start cussing
..... Everyone needs to make one they way it should be done and then they can get a little KRAZY an try new ideas. Jezzeeeeee .. I even made a stripper one out of redwood at 16 feet and 40 pounds.

Just to be honest I have made one that was just over 2 pounds... OK , so it was only three feet long and was made to be filled with crawdads at a Cajun cook out. What better way to serve a lot of the cooked mud puppies then in a pirogue. :lol:

Spike .. Great job and I know you and the kids will have a lot of fun with it.:D Just look out because building wood boats can be habit forming. :lol:

Chuck.
PS. Welcome to the land of sawdust , epoxy , fiberglass an fun. :wink: By the way go ahead and call me that , I have been called worse then that a lot of the time. :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

spikec

Member
Mar 12, 2007
24
0
Fayetteville, GA
If the outside rubrails are structurally not important, why do the plans call for it and why doe everyone here suggest putting on them early, i.e. before flipping the boat over and attaching the bottom? Plus the boat would look stupid without outside rubrails...you sure you didn't mean the inside ones?
 

Kayak Jack

Well-Known Member
Aug 26, 2003
13,976
171
87
Okemos / East Lansing Michigan
If your spacers are between the inner rail and the hull, yes, the outer ones are unnecessary. If the spacers are between the outer rail and the hull, then the inner one is unnecessary.

You have an asymmetrical box beam, with about 90% of the strength in the box beam, and a bit in the extra lumber.
 

oldsparkey

Well-Known Member
Aug 25, 2003
10,479
123
Central , Florida
www.southernpaddler.com
spikec said:
If the outside rubrails are structurally not important, why do the plans call for it and why doe everyone here suggest putting on them early, i.e. before flipping the boat over and attaching the bottom? Plus the boat would look stupid without outside rubrails...you sure you didn't mean the inside ones?

I use the outside rails to strengthen the sides of the boat before the bottom goes on , without them the sides will flex if the boat is picked up and crack or break a rib or ribs.

The inside ones are for covering the top of the fiberglass when it is applied to the boat and sealing (reinforcing) that area , plus for more strength and naturally looks.
The boat is transported upside down so it is the rails that take the weight of the boat on the rack.

Chuck.
 

keith

Well-Known Member
I have to agree with Chuck (a little). The outside is a RUB rail and is structurally for the flimsey sides. The spacers are not essential. I looked at the time that jack wrote or its the grits working on him. Later Keith
 

Kayak Jack

Well-Known Member
Aug 26, 2003
13,976
171
87
Okemos / East Lansing Michigan
My point is that the box beam structure formed by the inwale and the spacers provides enough strength for a gunnel. The extra rub rail isn't required for strength in use.

I've never built one of these pirogues, and am unfamiliar with what is needed during construction. Sounds like the outwale is necessary for construction.
 

hairymick

Well-Known Member
Dec 8, 2005
2,107
2
Queensland, Australia
Not only is the outwhale usefull for construction, it also provides some protection to the ply edge and definately increases the gunnwale strength and provides somewhere the get hold of the hull to lift it more easily over ones head.

I think Jack might be correct in saying that the outer section of the gunnwale is not necessary - structurally but it also serves several other uses that make it worthwhile to install. Even a narrow - thin one is better than none at all.