Getting it off (the moulds I mean)

[DJR]

Hi,

I have purchased plans for a TK1 racing kayak, as I'm in a marathon/flatwater paddling club and wanted something to compete in. Won't be my first build, as I'm doing a CLC C17 first. But I'm studiously studying the plans and getting it organised in my mind.

One big question that's come up...it's built on station moulds (10 of) with 4 bulkheads. Longitudinal stringers are located onto the moulds, and plywood panels attached to this (so no stitching, but otherwise like a cross between a S&G and larger plywood boat).

So, the question is...the stringers are rebated into the moulds (so the ply lies on the mould outlines), and so I can't see how the moulds are removed once it's together (the lower part only, deck is put on once it's out).

Should I cut them in half, reassemble on backing pieces, and then take them apart when it's done? Or are they usually pushed out at an angle (twisted out)?

Anyone built like this, and know how I'd get them out?

Hope the question makes sense!

Regards,
Darren
Australia

 

[JEM]

Are the molds/stations attached to strongback?

In my boats that have decks, you assemble the hull and deck but don't join the deck to the hull until after the molds/stations are removed.

 

[DJR]

Hi Matt,

Yes, the moulds are attached to a strongback and the kayak built up-side down. Then removed from the moulds, turned over and decked.

Just not sure how to do the "remove from moulds" bit as the chines/stringers sit in them. But it's how a lot of boats are built so it must be possible!

Regards,
Darren

 

[JEM]

is there a website for these plans?

 

[DJR]

Hi,

Yes, http://payneyachts.com/

I'll definitely ask David (the designer) how it's done, he's quite happy to answer questions (I've asked a few already :roll: ) but thought I'd post it here first to see if anyone else had done something similar.

Thanks Matt.

Regards,
Darren

 

[DJR]

I should add that I'm building David's design as he's the only one I've found who does a TK1 class kayak that meets the competition specs. I think TK class may be a purely Australian thing used for our flatwater races (mainly on rivers) as sea kayaks aren't fast enough, and K1's are pretty unstable and tkae a high skill level.

I've had a lot of interest form fellow paddlers as the weight should come in at that of a kevlar boat - around 12kgs fully fitted out - and can be done for a lot less - cheaper than fiberglass and lighter than that too.

Regards,
Darren

 

[JEM]

I'd be interested in hearing how it's done. Nice looking boats.

 

[hairymick]

G'day Darren,

Are you the Darren on the Aussie Woodworkers forum?

Mate, I wouldn't have a clue how you would go about removing the stations. VERY CAREFULLY, I would imagine.

I have liked the Payne designs for years but his build processes seem a little too complex for me.

Good luck with your build mate. Please share with us some piccies of your build.

 

[keith]

its probably stapled and will just pop off as a strip built. later Keith

 

[DJR]

Hi,

Yes Mick, that's me And I won a free pass to the Melbourne Woodwork show from the forum so am very excited! David does do nice designs, I wouldn't mind building one of his motor launches one day as a bigger fishing boat, but that's a long way off!

Keith, it's a ply on frame kayak, although he does do a strip-built (round hull) version of a K1. This one is abit more stable for me being hard chine.

Unless I hear otherwise from David, I'll probably make the moulds in 2 pieces and join them on the centreline, then be able to remove them in 2 parts once it's assembled.

I may even try, for a second one, as S&G without the stringers...not sure of the rigidity though, being 3mm ply.

Thanks for the input and I'll definitely post pics once I start.

Regards,
Darren