For better or worse, the anchor trolley is pretty much a done deal.
Been more than just a little distracted lately, I posted some questions about maybe wanting to build a Kayak next, now I'm waiting to hear what Matt has to say, unless he's decided I might be dangerous to his reputation. :shock:
But, I'll be rambling on and on about that, in a different section of the Forum!
Went back to my #1 launch site, Pirate's Cove, Ozello FL. Wanted to get there at low tide, paddle out towards the Gulf a bit, then ride the tide back in.
Right.
When I did finally get there, I could see I was a little off in my timing.
After paddling about a bit, I took advantage extra high tide and took some pics right at the ramp, where it is normally high & dry. Made a nice studio, I thought.
Below, is Sacajawea anchored from just forward of the beam, with my permanent install version of Chris's nifty "no holes" anchor trolley. (Mine has holes.)
And again, with the anchor point moved towards the bow:
I found that with a slack-line trolley, it's no trouble to run the anchor point from midships, up to the bow, or back to the stern. I'm using no bungee for tension, no pulleys or cheek blocks, just three, large eye-bolts, like Chris showed in his pictures, only mine are permanently mounted on the side of the hull.
When I ran the trolley line through the eye-bolts, I tied a loop in one end, (a bowline,) and a large snap shackle Chris did. I pulled the line fairly tight when I tied that shackle on, so when I lift it up and clip it to the center eye-bolt (the "stowed" position,) it doesn't seem to bang against the hull.
Also, I'm only passing the anchor line through the snap shackle, and NOT tying it off to it. That way, I can adjust the amount of line out (scope) from my seat, without having to trolley the shackle back to where I am.
When I want to anchor, I release the shackle from the center eye-bolt, slide the anchor line into the shackle )which is stays clipped to the loop,) and lower the anchor over the side, right by my seat. I then trolley the anchor point forward (or aft) and pay out as much line as I want, then tie it off to the inner rail where I can get to it.
Simple, not complicated, cheap(!) and it WORKS!!!
I did leave that 15lb mushroom anchor home. Now I'm using a 10lb lead down-rigger weight. I figure it will be much easier to lift in and out of the boat from it's place behind the seat, it won't be as likely to get hung up as one of those folding grappling hooks, and if there's enough wind and/or current to drag the thing, I shouldn't be out there in the first place.
Now, you probably notice that funny-looking stuff on the other side of the boat. . . That's my solution to storing a long paddle and push pole outside the boat. Just some aluminum flat stock, bent to clip under the inner rail, nothing fancy.
The jury's still out on this one. It works well enough, keeps the paddle and push pole out of the way. I'll fiddle with it some more and if I decide to keep it, I've got some black heat shrink that will cover it and quiet it down a bit. Contrary to what I thought might happen, the push pole doesn't get in the way when paddling. That was my main concern. The other was that it might be awkward to enter and exit the boat from that side, or get in the way of landing a fish but this turned out not to be a problem, as well.
Here's something of a close-up of one of the clips, and you can also see my new drip ring. This was made with some cuts from some foam pipe insulation and contact cement. Went on easy, works well, and if needed, can be easily replaced.
In that last pic, you can see where I used some parachute cord to leash the push pole to the inner rail. Later, I did the same thing to the paddle when I stopped to fish. That will have to become "routine procedure." I'll get a Velcro wrist band and some parachute cord to make a paddle leash. When paddling, the band goes on the wrist, when I lay the paddle in the hanger, I'll transfer the Velcro band to the rail. I'd hate to loose a paddle!
I do intend to loose that PVC push pole, though. My first attempt to make my "push-paddle" didn't work out quite right. Another, better one is currently in the works.
My rod holder attachment turned out to be only marginally functional. I now know how I'll change it to clamp on the rail In the mean time, I found out that at least one fishing pole stores best for me, behind the seat, more-or-less horizontal. That explains the presence of that yellow, plastic milk crate. Honest, guys, as soon as I can, I'll replace it with a proper wooden, milk crate! :wink:
Almost forgot!
While I was out there trying out the new accessories, this thing somehow fell into the boat!
That would be a 15 1/2 inch, speckled sea trout. (And it's about time, too!) :lol:
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Been more than just a little distracted lately, I posted some questions about maybe wanting to build a Kayak next, now I'm waiting to hear what Matt has to say, unless he's decided I might be dangerous to his reputation. :shock:
But, I'll be rambling on and on about that, in a different section of the Forum!
Went back to my #1 launch site, Pirate's Cove, Ozello FL. Wanted to get there at low tide, paddle out towards the Gulf a bit, then ride the tide back in.
Right.
When I did finally get there, I could see I was a little off in my timing.
After paddling about a bit, I took advantage extra high tide and took some pics right at the ramp, where it is normally high & dry. Made a nice studio, I thought.
Below, is Sacajawea anchored from just forward of the beam, with my permanent install version of Chris's nifty "no holes" anchor trolley. (Mine has holes.)
And again, with the anchor point moved towards the bow:
I found that with a slack-line trolley, it's no trouble to run the anchor point from midships, up to the bow, or back to the stern. I'm using no bungee for tension, no pulleys or cheek blocks, just three, large eye-bolts, like Chris showed in his pictures, only mine are permanently mounted on the side of the hull.
When I ran the trolley line through the eye-bolts, I tied a loop in one end, (a bowline,) and a large snap shackle Chris did. I pulled the line fairly tight when I tied that shackle on, so when I lift it up and clip it to the center eye-bolt (the "stowed" position,) it doesn't seem to bang against the hull.
Also, I'm only passing the anchor line through the snap shackle, and NOT tying it off to it. That way, I can adjust the amount of line out (scope) from my seat, without having to trolley the shackle back to where I am.
When I want to anchor, I release the shackle from the center eye-bolt, slide the anchor line into the shackle )which is stays clipped to the loop,) and lower the anchor over the side, right by my seat. I then trolley the anchor point forward (or aft) and pay out as much line as I want, then tie it off to the inner rail where I can get to it.
Simple, not complicated, cheap(!) and it WORKS!!!
I did leave that 15lb mushroom anchor home. Now I'm using a 10lb lead down-rigger weight. I figure it will be much easier to lift in and out of the boat from it's place behind the seat, it won't be as likely to get hung up as one of those folding grappling hooks, and if there's enough wind and/or current to drag the thing, I shouldn't be out there in the first place.
Now, you probably notice that funny-looking stuff on the other side of the boat. . . That's my solution to storing a long paddle and push pole outside the boat. Just some aluminum flat stock, bent to clip under the inner rail, nothing fancy.
The jury's still out on this one. It works well enough, keeps the paddle and push pole out of the way. I'll fiddle with it some more and if I decide to keep it, I've got some black heat shrink that will cover it and quiet it down a bit. Contrary to what I thought might happen, the push pole doesn't get in the way when paddling. That was my main concern. The other was that it might be awkward to enter and exit the boat from that side, or get in the way of landing a fish but this turned out not to be a problem, as well.
Here's something of a close-up of one of the clips, and you can also see my new drip ring. This was made with some cuts from some foam pipe insulation and contact cement. Went on easy, works well, and if needed, can be easily replaced.
In that last pic, you can see where I used some parachute cord to leash the push pole to the inner rail. Later, I did the same thing to the paddle when I stopped to fish. That will have to become "routine procedure." I'll get a Velcro wrist band and some parachute cord to make a paddle leash. When paddling, the band goes on the wrist, when I lay the paddle in the hanger, I'll transfer the Velcro band to the rail. I'd hate to loose a paddle!
I do intend to loose that PVC push pole, though. My first attempt to make my "push-paddle" didn't work out quite right. Another, better one is currently in the works.
My rod holder attachment turned out to be only marginally functional. I now know how I'll change it to clamp on the rail In the mean time, I found out that at least one fishing pole stores best for me, behind the seat, more-or-less horizontal. That explains the presence of that yellow, plastic milk crate.
Honest, guys, as soon as I can, I'll replace it with a proper wooden, milk crate! :wink: Almost forgot!
While I was out there trying out the new accessories, this thing somehow fell into the boat!
That would be a 15 1/2 inch, speckled sea trout. (And it's about time, too!) :lol:
Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
