Accepting the fact that I don’t know a whole lot about anything. I decided to follow the lead of some of the people I have read about who have built wooden boats. The advice gathered would be put to use on my current build. So with visions of a well made stripper in mind, I started out.
Now, on my last boats, I used many clamps to hold the strips in place while the glue dried. This has worked but, it requires a large amount of clamps and the glue must be given time to set prior to removing the clamps and continuing the build. HAH ! not for me. For this build i would hold the strips in place with nails, small nails to be sure but, nails. So far the master plan has worked out just fine. the strips were held in place with only a couple of gaps discovered after stripping was complete.
An air driven brad nailer worked GREAT for doing this. A small piece of wood was used to insure that there would be the “head “ of the nail available to grab with pliers for removal. The little angle pieces from the scarf cuts worked perfictly for this. There were enough of them since I could not find Cedar in lengths long enough so 8 & 10 ft boards were used. Now on to the “minor area of concern.
After completing the form and removing the brad/nails. There are an un-countable number of holes in the boat. Differing thoughts have been put forth on whether to “fill” the holes with toothpicks or just let the fill coat of epoxy do the job.
I decided to go with the [ fill the holes with toothpicks] method.
Now to my area of concern. As you can see by looking at the attached pic, it is my belief that I will have a bit of trouble laying the glass over the hull smoothly. I will say, that once it is in place, I won’t have much worry about it moving around while applying epoxy.
My other concern is [and please note, I am not an engineer, nor am I well versed in fluid dinamics] BUT, it seams to me that this method will at best make it harder to paddle the canoe and I feel that it will not move as swiftly through the water as I had wished.
Your informed opinions would be of great value here.
Thanks
Now, on my last boats, I used many clamps to hold the strips in place while the glue dried. This has worked but, it requires a large amount of clamps and the glue must be given time to set prior to removing the clamps and continuing the build. HAH ! not for me. For this build i would hold the strips in place with nails, small nails to be sure but, nails. So far the master plan has worked out just fine. the strips were held in place with only a couple of gaps discovered after stripping was complete.
An air driven brad nailer worked GREAT for doing this. A small piece of wood was used to insure that there would be the “head “ of the nail available to grab with pliers for removal. The little angle pieces from the scarf cuts worked perfictly for this. There were enough of them since I could not find Cedar in lengths long enough so 8 & 10 ft boards were used. Now on to the “minor area of concern.
After completing the form and removing the brad/nails. There are an un-countable number of holes in the boat. Differing thoughts have been put forth on whether to “fill” the holes with toothpicks or just let the fill coat of epoxy do the job.
I decided to go with the [ fill the holes with toothpicks] method.
Now to my area of concern. As you can see by looking at the attached pic, it is my belief that I will have a bit of trouble laying the glass over the hull smoothly. I will say, that once it is in place, I won’t have much worry about it moving around while applying epoxy.
My other concern is [and please note, I am not an engineer, nor am I well versed in fluid dinamics] BUT, it seams to me that this method will at best make it harder to paddle the canoe and I feel that it will not move as swiftly through the water as I had wished.
Your informed opinions would be of great value here.
Thanks
!!!