Been Makin a [size=0]wo[/size]Man
- Thread starter hairymick
- Start date
Mick...
I have been watching this build over on Matt's web site , the canoe is coming together really fast and I'm learning a new way of doing it. Never would of thought of doing it the way you are , good idea.
It sure makes the stitching a lot simple to do then the way I have been doing it. I have the canoe (or boat) sitting upright as I stitch it together and it can be a pain.
On the lighter side ...........
Robin sure does good work and I think it is really nice of her to let you help , now and then with the build. I bet that when the canoe is done and on the water then she expects you to make one for your use. :roll:
OK... MICK..
Count very slowly ..10 , take a breath , pause , let it out ... 9 , take a breath , pause , let it out ... 8 , take a breath , pause , let it out ... 7 and on down to 0. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Chuck.
I have been watching this build over on Matt's web site , the canoe is coming together really fast and I'm learning a new way of doing it. Never would of thought of doing it the way you are , good idea.
It sure makes the stitching a lot simple to do then the way I have been doing it. I have the canoe (or boat) sitting upright as I stitch it together and it can be a pain.
On the lighter side ...........
Robin sure does good work and I think it is really nice of her to let you help , now and then with the build. I bet that when the canoe is done and on the water then she expects you to make one for your use. :roll:
OK... MICK..
Count very slowly ..10 , take a breath , pause , let it out ... 9 , take a breath , pause , let it out ... 8 , take a breath , pause , let it out ... 7 and on down to 0. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Chuck.
G'day Chuck,
I find it easier to build a many panel boat this way. The strong back holds every thing square and in place and is well worth the extra effort to set up. IMHO
Jack,
Thinks mate. I hope so. I just love wild women.
I find it easier to build a many panel boat this way. The strong back holds every thing square and in place and is well worth the extra effort to set up. IMHO
Jack,
Thinks mate. I hope so. I just love wild women.
hey mick good looking boat even if a woman did it. :wink: looks like your filling your shop up. youll have to build another boat shed. hope you & robbin are doing great. keep building. (cat)
Mick,
Building on a strongback with forms as shown in the pictures is very similar to strip building like I am accustomed to, except for the stiching, of course. Apparently I missed the first part of the thread. What is the design?
Joe
Building on a strongback with forms as shown in the pictures is very similar to strip building like I am accustomed to, except for the stiching, of course. Apparently I missed the first part of the thread. What is the design?
Joe
Paddlin'Gator said:
Here is the link to Matt's web site it has from the beginning to present.
http://www.jemwatercraft.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2210
Chuck.
Heya thanks guys,
G'day Dave,
Thanks mate. I think the Sasquatch 18 with a couple of feet cut off the back and a square transom would be a better option for a leccy.
G'day Joe,
Very similar to a stripper build and the lines on this one are even similar.
Main difference is that there are not so many stations required and the build is much quicker. Personally, I prefer the elegance of a well built strip canoe but I don't thing all the extra work required, not to mention the expense of the timber can be justified when compared to a design of this quality.
My first attempt was a Gilpatrick Puddleduck 14 stripper. There was a month of 10 hour days - 7 days a week to get it to the stage where I could epoxy the outside. 280 hours.
This one took less than 40 hours to get to the same point.
Design is a Sasquatch 16.5 by Matt of Jem Watercraft.
Outside is allmost done. A couple more epoxy fill coats and a little touch up here and there and she comes off the frames.
G'day Dave,
Thanks mate.
I think the Sasquatch 18 with a couple of feet cut off the back and a square transom would be a better option for a leccy. G'day Joe,
Very similar to a stripper build and the lines on this one are even similar.
Main difference is that there are not so many stations required and the build is much quicker. Personally, I prefer the elegance of a well built strip canoe but I don't thing all the extra work required, not to mention the expense of the timber can be justified when compared to a design of this quality.
My first attempt was a Gilpatrick Puddleduck 14 stripper. There was a month of 10 hour days - 7 days a week to get it to the stage where I could epoxy the outside. 280 hours.
This one took less than 40 hours to get to the same point.
Design is a Sasquatch 16.5 by Matt of Jem Watercraft.
Outside is allmost done. A couple more epoxy fill coats and a little touch up here and there and she comes off the frames.
Looking really good Mick. Patiently waiting to see her on the water and wondering which one you will build next ( My bet is the Issaquah ).You are rather sparse ( short) on boats.
Did I ever tell you that building wood boats can become habit forming , almost an addiction :?:
:lol: :lol: :lol: Chuck.
Did I ever tell you that building wood boats can become habit forming , almost an addiction :?:
:lol: :lol: :lol: Chuck.
Thanks Chuck, and yes you did but I think I underestimated the extent of the addiction.
I found an old image of my Puddleduck build. Just finished scanning it. I was much younger here and even still had some colour in my hair!
I found an old image of my Puddleduck build. Just finished scanning it. I was much younger here and even still had some colour in my hair!
H C
Mick, just a queston for ya.
I notice that all of your butt joints fall at the same position on the hull. Now I know the strength comes from the glass and epoxy BUT, don't you think it would have been better to spread the joints out a bit?.
Scarfed joints on a "thicker wood" I could see along one line but with thin wood and butt joins ???????????????????
No matter, she still looks great!
Please remember, this is a question, NOT a condemnation. :lol:
Mick, just a queston for ya.
I notice that all of your butt joints fall at the same position on the hull. Now I know the strength comes from the glass and epoxy BUT, don't you think it would have been better to spread the joints out a bit?.
Scarfed joints on a "thicker wood" I could see along one line but with thin wood and butt joins ???????????????????
No matter, she still looks great!
Please remember, this is a question, NOT a condemnation. :lol:
Mick, I'm waiting to see pictures of that canoe loaded and ready for camping. You will enjoy the feel of a real woodscraft under you, heading out for adventure.
I sincerely wish I could wave a wand and transport you and that boat here to Canoe Country. the land from whence they came.
I sincerely wish I could wave a wand and transport you and that boat here to Canoe Country. the land from whence they came.
piggyback on Jack
Mick,
If you ever find yourself coming over to the States, I can guarantee you a cabin on the Boundry Waters of Minnesota. I think it's safe to say no matter where you might light, you'd have a glut of paddlers coming over to welcome you.
Thanks for all the inspiration, perspiration, and defication(boat science)!! :lol:
Lee
Mick,
If you ever find yourself coming over to the States, I can guarantee you a cabin on the Boundry Waters of Minnesota. I think it's safe to say no matter where you might light, you'd have a glut of paddlers coming over to welcome you.
Thanks for all the inspiration, perspiration, and defication(boat science)!! :lol:
Lee
G'day Baldy,
Mate, this is the way the panels are drawn on the plans. To change the panel splices so that they are staggered would involve a degree of skill that is beyond my ability.
All my boats are built this way and they all seem plenty strong enough so far. I thing the staggered joints would have been stronger but are not necessary in this type of construction.
G'day Jack,
So do I mate, So do I
G'day Lee,
Thanks mate.
Mate, this is the way the panels are drawn on the plans. To change the panel splices so that they are staggered would involve a degree of skill that is beyond my ability.
All my boats are built this way and they all seem plenty strong enough so far. I thing the staggered joints would have been stronger but are not necessary in this type of construction.
G'day Jack,
So do I mate, So do I
G'day Lee,
Thanks mate.
QUOTE
I found an old image of my Puddleduck build. Just finished scanning it. I was much younger here and even still had some colour in my hair!
Mick,
I've noticed the same phenominum. The more boats you build the grayer (and thinner) one's hair gets :? But, hell, we can't quit building boats.
Joe
I found an old image of my Puddleduck build. Just finished scanning it. I was much younger here and even still had some colour in my hair!
Mick,
I've noticed the same phenominum. The more boats you build the grayer (and thinner) one's hair gets :? But, hell, we can't quit building boats.
Joe
Not sure how Matts plans are set up but on the couple of canoes I have built you did the butt joints before cutting out the pieces(flat panels) and then when stitched up the joints were staggered a bit.
But its looking good Mick!
But its looking good Mick!
He Lee,
Thank you very much mate. 8) 8)
Swamprat,
Matt's plans are such that the panel splices all line up. The panels are marked and cut on the sheets of ply before any joins are done. I am not smart enough to work out how to stagger the joints.
Matts system has worked really well for me and he has a really neat QA trick to check everything before the panels are joined.
I think that properly done, Matts system of panel splices are at least as strong as the rest of the ply so the lined up joints really pose no problem at all. If in doubt, one could allways use butt blocks instead, but I see no need for them.
got the graphite on the bottom today. will let her rest a couple of days before i take her off the strongback to start on the inside.
Thank you very much mate. 8) 8)
Swamprat,
Matt's plans are such that the panel splices all line up. The panels are marked and cut on the sheets of ply before any joins are done. I am not smart enough to work out how to stagger the joints.
Matts system has worked really well for me and he has a really neat QA trick to check everything before the panels are joined.
I think that properly done, Matts system of panel splices are at least as strong as the rest of the ply so the lined up joints really pose no problem at all. If in doubt, one could allways use butt blocks instead, but I see no need for them.
got the graphite on the bottom today. will let her rest a couple of days before i take her off the strongback to start on the inside.
I know it might be to late but I have to ask.
Did you put a strip of fiberglass tape along the center line of the bow and stern seams where most of the wear and tear will be on the canoe.
I like to add a strip where the graphite mix is , as additional protection for the boat.
Chuck.
Did you put a strip of fiberglass tape along the center line of the bow and stern seams where most of the wear and tear will be on the canoe.
I like to add a strip where the graphite mix is , as additional protection for the boat.
Chuck.