Another Wally World paddle
- Thread starter jdupre'
- Start date
"Back in the paddle again"
I like the wally -world paddle. My only comment would be that you cut half the shaft back on each one. Epoxy the two back together so the shaft is one paddle thickness. Wrap jute twine around the lap joint, and epoxy the jute too.
All this talk of dripping water is making me long for the days of spring and summer!!
Lee
I like the wally -world paddle. My only comment would be that you cut half the shaft back on each one. Epoxy the two back together so the shaft is one paddle thickness. Wrap jute twine around the lap joint, and epoxy the jute too.
All this talk of dripping water is making me long for the days of spring and summer!!
Lee
Lee, follow this thread for pix, scarfing and wrapping procedures:
http://www.neilbank.com/phpBB2/viewtopi ... c&start=15
Piper
http://www.neilbank.com/phpBB2/viewtopi ... c&start=15
Piper
Just curious on what length double paddles y'all prefer. I have mine adjusted to 88" now, but I'll experiment again this weekend. I also noticed that "real" kayak paddles have smaller blades than standard type canoe paddles. I'm undecided about cutting the Wally World paddles down to a smaller size. Anyone experiment with this?
Joey
Joey
I prefer a 220 cm (86.6"). I have two paddles of this length - a carbon fiber and a wooden one from Black Dog. I have a paddle about 96" and it is way too long. Others like somewhere in between.
Thanks, Jack. I just finished raising the platform that my seat sits on 3/4". I'm going out in the morning and I'll do some more experimenting with the length of the paddle.
Looking forward to meeting you and the rest of the group at the "Piperthon".
Later, Joey
Looking forward to meeting you and the rest of the group at the "Piperthon".
Later, Joey
Settled on 88" overall length. Time to make the cut. I lined up and rechecked everything. This picture is for you, Jack. Notice the clutter left over from the latest knife project. Delivered it to the customer-- now it's time for the fun stuff.
I measured out about an 8 to 1 slope and cut both paddles out wiith hand rip saw( whimpy bandsaw couldn't handle it). The blue thing on the right is an unsuccessful drip ring made from a piece of foam pool noodle.
Sanded the two pieces even on the table sander and sweetened them up with a sanding block. Used Titebond III and brass pins and clamped it up, checking for straightness. Go figure, Wal Mart paddles are not perfectly straight so I had to eyeball it.
When the glue dries I'll wrap the joint with cord and saturate it with epoxy.
Joey
I measured out about an 8 to 1 slope and cut both paddles out wiith hand rip saw( whimpy bandsaw couldn't handle it). The blue thing on the right is an unsuccessful drip ring made from a piece of foam pool noodle.
Sanded the two pieces even on the table sander and sweetened them up with a sanding block. Used Titebond III and brass pins and clamped it up, checking for straightness. Go figure, Wal Mart paddles are not perfectly straight so I had to eyeball it.
When the glue dries I'll wrap the joint with cord and saturate it with epoxy.
Joey
jdupre'.......very cool paddle work. bring it with you if it fits in the car and we'll compare.. Pre-aligning and clamping are critical for a good joint later.
When i wrapped mine i ran about twenty feet of nylon seine twine out, tied one end to the carport and the kept LOTS tension on it as I walked ahead, turning the paddle assembly, winding it on.
Nice knife too!! show us some "in process" pictures next time you make one.
Piper
When i wrapped mine i ran about twenty feet of nylon seine twine out, tied one end to the carport and the kept LOTS tension on it as I walked ahead, turning the paddle assembly, winding it on.
Nice knife too!! show us some "in process" pictures next time you make one.
Piper
Piper, that's a good idea on that wrapping procedure. I'll bet it's easier on the hands than pulling with one hand and twisting with the other.
If you use nylon line to wrap the paddle, get a teapot of water boiling and pour the boiling water on the nylon. It will suck down tighter than you can wrap it.
Bob
Bob
You guys are way ahead of me in skill and talent. Damned good thing I' so handsome and humble.
I'd lke to see the paddle, knife too.
I'd lke to see the paddle, knife too.
Noticed that the paddle edges looked a bit thick so I scribed about a 1/4" section down the center of each edge and planed them down with my spokeshave, rasp and sandpaper. I then went over the whole paddle with 80 grit. This is the after picture. The edges started out at +or- 7/16" (yeah, Wal Mart paddles are big on the plus and minus thing )and ended up a little less than 1/4".
I agree, Joey. Fine tuning a paddle is, as Keith sez, "by eye and hand". (Or, is that Seedtick?) There are many hydrodynamic theories going on a paddle, but after having watched one work the water for a while, it gets easier to see what should and shouldn't be there.
Jack wrote " ...."by eye and hand". .....what should and shouldn't be there...."
I love working in 3d and 2d( did a little oil painting) because you can tweak things until they just "look right". I think that is something you can't necessarily learn--form and proportion.
I love working in 3d and 2d( did a little oil painting) because you can tweak things until they just "look right". I think that is something you can't necessarily learn--form and proportion.
jdupre'.........yup, by hand and by eye. Keep working at a project till it looks and, just plain, FEELS right to you. Form follows function, you know. Like this little gem of a home-built boat.
cheers, piper
cheers, piper
Now that's a party machine! I'd like to have to have the scrap aluminum rights for the beer cans emptied on that vessel. On party day, I can just see the pickups and IROC Camaros lined up on the bank.
Joey
Joey
Yep, I'd sail it across the Pacific with an all gal crew. Probably wouldn't even get out of SFO bay - but what the hell!
