I have used:
3M 5200. Very strong. Does not clean up well after it dries.
PL construction glue. Failed when I tried to laminate some white oak curved batter boards.
Gorilla Glue. Did not like the clean up.
Epoxy. Considered the best ,even necessary by some builders, certainly most popular. Necessary with fiberglass construction and most modern designs. I did not care for mixing, clamping time, pot life, $$$., or clean up.
Titebond 3. My favorite. Does not work with fiberglass.
Note; I think of these only 3M 5200 and epoxy are rated for "below the water line" usage. Don't mean they won't work they just haven't bothered getting their "diploma".
Good info. I knew most of it, but how to apply it in our context is another matter.
I have used 3M 5200 in my years of sailboat ownership. Nasty stuff to work with and clean up. Tough as nails. Conventional wisdom was never use it on anything you would ever want to take apart again.
One follow up question. What do you mean by Titebond 3 "Does not work with fiberglass"? I wouldn't glue up fiberglass with it, but I figure you can glue up wood that will be glassed, right?
On the "below the waterline thing" I tend to draw lines between joints that are actually in the water and joints that are inside a glassed boat. Also gluing up the half laps for the frames in a pirogue that will be glassed is an entirely different matter than gluing up joints in a wooden boat. This is especially true if the pirogue doesn't live in the water. We recently mentioned how many days per year folks paddled. If a guy paddles a boat 8 days per year, even long days, and the boat lives indoors the rest of the time, I'd bet Titebond 2 would hold up well, not that I am recommending using it.
Still I guess using epoxy isn't that much of a hassle. It just is more convenient to be able to grab a bottle of glue and glue up a single joint at a time.