A New Marsh Pirogue

[islandpiper]

Starving is never good. I can attest that I have done my best to keep all those persons near to me from starving during this whole feast-season. The weigh in will prove it.

And, just for the record, Jake may have an opinion on butt joints. Doubtful Gershom will cough up another book for a while.

piper

 

[swampwood]

I'll be smiling when in a chop two miles from the landing on Lake Verrett. piper

piper,
That would be a very calm day on the lake.

 

[beekeeper]

.................anyway one problem with scarf joints is that they can be easily glue starved if overlapped too much

we don't try for a perfect matchup of the edges, but rather keep the edges back (separated) about 1/16 or so, that way you can't squeeze out the glue no matter how much pressure you put on the joint

Aren't your ply boats usually painted? If finished natural would the "seperation" show? The seperated space or the over lapped area sanded flush is what looks bad when useing luan. The contrast in colors of the skin and inside ply shows any faults. Faults that are very hard to avoid.

beekeeper

 

[seedtick]

we paint plywood

 

[beekeeper]

Guess I will have to practice on some scrap ply. It wood be nice to have a less visable splice. I like the wood finished natural.

beekeeper

 

[oldsparkey]

As You might of noticed ....... I WAS NOT JOKING. :twisted:
I said in the post at the beginning this was going to be for reference to anyone wanting to build a boat this way.

Now I will back out and get off this thread so we can have a recorded record of the build for reference.

We have a couple of real time boat builders making this one for Piper so lets be adults and act like it....... The Chit chat is for other sections on here and if you don't know where ..... PM Me...... and I will tell you if it is beyond your compensation , especially since others ( More then one ) have even notice the hijacking on here.

Time for correction........

Friend Keith and Seedtick .... PLEASE continue with the build and posting it on here ....PLEASE as a reference for us and Piper.

This post of mine explaing things will vanish at a later date........when everyone behaves.

 

[jdupre']

keith and seedtick, are the plies in the marine ply y'all use consistant enough is thickness to use them as a gauge for the taper? In other words, if you sand down keeping the lines straight, is the taper consistant?

Joey

 

[keith]

hi joey, I get my plywood and layout my patterns. i have a bow and stern, i pick out what side i want on the outside and what end i want the bow on, i want a left side and a right side, i want the front end (bow) side on top of the back end (stern)side and i'll mark them so i get them in the right order. i use 1/4 " plywood and a 8 to 1 ratio on pirogues and that would be 2 inches. that means i cut the inside of the bow side and the out on the stern side. all the sides (4) will be cut 2 inches (i cut my sides where its a squar cut at the end of each piece) so i line them up on their 2 " step line and start sanding in my cast. let me say you can sand, plane,jig w/router, jig w/ cir.saw. the plywood i use, the glue line will tell you that you are flat from one side to the other, keeping a stright edge from the front edge of the bottom side to the fourth side up to the back 2" line. my fingers are tired.later keith

 

[seedtick]

with the shape the way we like it, we begin to lock in that shape by cutting and installing the stem pieces at each end

the ends of the bow and stern are curved and the stem pieces are cut to match the curve

 

[Kayak Jack]

I like the way you clamp in a temporary thwart there, clever.

 

[seedtick]

been dodging cold weather, waiting until it's warm enough to use epoxy

next come the breasthooks

they keep the sides spread out and allow us to remove the temporary thwarts

 

[islandpiper]

Very cool. Guess I'd better call Raka today and place an order. Give me a rough idea of the square footage, inside and out. I suppose knowing the outside and doubling it would be about the same. Or knowing the inside surface, port side only and multiplying by 4.25 would get it..... piper

 

[captaindoug]

You guys said in an earlier post that you cut out of few extra stem pieces when you are making them, question I have is how are you transferring the curve of each particular bow of whatever boat you are making to the stem, and are you getting that fit via bandsaw or planes or...? Did you scribe the curve prior to pulling the ends together? One more, I am usually able to do a little "industrial espionage" watching your builds because you write the degrees, width, and what size boat your patterns are for on the jig itself. This time you have the blank side to the camera, so if I may ask, what did you make the flair angle, and width on this one? You mentioned 35 degrees earlier as a starting point, give or take with shims and/or vertical placement of the jigs, and this one looks like 30 degrees or more from my house. If it is a trade secret, don't tell me, I don't want 'cha to hav'ta kill me.

 

[seedtick]

Piper,
It's about two full sheets of plywood so that's about 128 sq ft of plywood, not counting trim. Don't know the coverage for the epoxy you're using but West Systems claims about 90 to 100 sq, ft, per quart IIRC. So you're looking at two quarts but two quarts may be almost as costly as a gallon - your choice

Capt'n Doug,
You're correct that we cut additional stem pieces but that's for straight stem pirogues. For curved stem pirogues we cut each to fit. The curve follows the curve of the ends and the angle is cut to fit the angle where the ends come together. We don't make the curved ones ahead of time because their dimensions vary from boat to boat and depends on how much we pull out the sides. Note the temporary thwarts that spread the sides -they're in before we make the stem piece. I think Beekeeper had a thread about curved stem pieces. If you can't find it, let me know and i'll post a quick tutorial. It's not difficult but you have to think about a two dimensional saw blade cutting a three dimensional compound curve

Those jigs flare at 35 degrees and the narrow part of the jig is 24". Because the sides continue to bend outward between the jigs, we can move the jigs to get to a range of bottom widths. I think this particular bottom is 27 or 28". The thwarts we stick in spread the sides out near the stem. Beekeeper was around last week and measured the flare at the bow at something 40 or 45 degrees. The idea of spreading it out is to mimic the wave shedding lines of a Lafitte skiff.

 

[ZipSnipe]

Looks great, keep the pics coming!!!!

 

[Oyster]

I am just getting around to opening this thread up and see that the boys of summer have been out playing a bit with their shiny tools. :lol: Its nice to see you guys sharing your skills and knowledge. March 19? was mentioned as a day of a gathering. Can you point us all to that link too? TIA

 

[islandpiper]

Oyster, we would love to have you show up for Rendezvous 2011.

Go to the TRIPS AND SOCIAL EVENTS IN THE PLANNING STAGE item, above.

piper

 

[Oyster]

LOL! I know these types of threads are supposed to be serious business, so I will keep things short and to the point. Since I have a new grandchild in that area we are indeed planning a trip after the long cold winter months that we have about that time of year. Of course eating food is my favorite sport outside of eating sawdust. :lol: :lol:

 

[seedtick]

Had to move inside and get a shop heater but finally got the bottom on

two scarf joints with each joint landing on a bottom rib

 

[Kayak Jack]

Pretty grain on that wood.