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Have you tried Schutte lumber company? According to http://www.glen-l.com/, they sell marine plywood in Kansas City. I would at least use a plywood with exterior glue.

The wing paddle is one other type. They are popular with the go fast group. http://www.fastkayak.com/wing.html http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npfwYuMDm9k&feature=related

I just had a problem with one statement. "The hard chined boat has more corners to catch on going up stream and those same sharp edges catch the current and help you coming down." If you are moving faster than the current going downstream, then any part of the boat catching the current will add...

You certainly do some beautiful work.

I follow you with the GTO and am not disagreeing there. I just don't see how that equates with the boat thing. Also on the whitewater boats, my experience isn't with downriver racing type boats, but with more like a whitewater play boat which are designed for maximum maneuverability with a lot...

I used a 15' 9" Blue Hole OCA which was considered a very good whitewater canoe back then. It is the boat in my avatar. That photo was taken on the Chattooga River. I think that was at Dick's Creek Ledge, but it might have been at Second Ledge. Anyway the Blue Hole has a very flat bottom with...

If you are going downstream and are moving faster than the current, how can the sharp chines catch on the current and help you. I can see how it might help pull you along if you are going slower or the same speed as the current. I used to do a lot of whitewater paddling in up to class III-IV...

Anybody like model railroads? Check this one out. http://www.miniatur-wunderland.com/exhibit/video/4-minutes-wunderland/

I have not done any experiments, but I would guess that the West System folks have. They recommend graphite for a low friction coating and powdered aluminum for abrasion resistance. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/additive-selection-guide/ It might be best to put on a coat or two with aluminum...

It sounds similar to Nockatee's punt. His thread is here, but he didn't built with planks. http://www.southernpaddler.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5862

I'm with Bellybuster. I would like to know how you think that it will be as strong as fiberglass. As an experiment, paint some of that bed-liner on a piece of newspaper. On another piece of newspaper lay on fiberglass cloth and saturate it with epoxy. Let both cure then see which one you can...

The primer is $58 a gallon plus at least $100 probably for the bed-liner stuff and UV coating. It is going to cost more than fiber-glassing and it would be interesting to know how many pounds it is going to add to the boat. It will not add the strength that fiberglass would.

On the canoe, they had it both inside and outside. A textured non-slip surface isn't what I would want on the outside, but let us know how it works if you use it.

I used to get frog legs like that with a 22 rimfire in Mississippi in the 70's. I never ran into anyone who cared about us doing that either back then.

I have a RWS 34, but it isn't the Meistershutze Pro version. Mine has iron sights and no butt pad and is a 22. I do have a 4X scope on it. It shoots good as long as I do my part.

http://www.archive.org/stream/papercanoe00bishuoft#page/n9/mode/2up Voyage of the Paper Canoe: 2500 miles in a paper canoe from Quebec to the Gulf of Mexico in 1874-1875. If you follow the link back to the Internet Archive home page and search on something like canoeing or camping, you can find...

Werner Paddles fit guide: http://www.wernerpaddles.com/fit_guide/index.php

I like Jack's design and the table is close to what I did, but that concrete floor would make your feet and back hurt after a while. It will probably be OK after you get a good layer of sawdust and shavings down there to cushion it.

Good job. Pretty boat.

Hey Matt Do you sell those loaf plans? :wink: