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The real funny part about this topic is someone actually designing and someone else building a foam boat to start with. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Ron, you do not sand the kevlar cloth. Just like you should not sand the fiberglass cloth. You should only be sanding (epoxy).

Ron, No pics. You are right about the smooth side on the inside, but you also build the epoxy up on the outside and sand it smooth. The same as you fill the weave on fiberglass cloth. The kevlar is tuff and am sure it would withstand more abuse than an wood fiberglass boat.

Finally, the first coat of varnish is going on tommorow morning.

I built 2 canoes using the very same book. They were both built using Kevlar and I used 3/4" styrofoam as a mold for the ribs and fiberglassed over them. They were very strong and could take a heck of a load.

Project, Please explain, The right way to use foam in building construction? Or show some pics of its use? or both :idea:

Still working on final sanding to get ready for the varnish :mrgreen:

If I am not mistaken, Easy Poxy requires only 2 coats. I know Interlux calls for 2 and a primer. If it is well covered I would say that more would not protect it any better.

Although it once was by far the longest river of North America, today its length is comparable with the Mississippi because of channelization to eliminate meanders and facilitate navigation.

I think the reason that the posts (of other builder, owners) and the designer of this build say it is fast is because it is so sleek and slick. Water will most probably run the other way. I hope :?: :?: :mrgreen:

Don't know if you have thought about it , but I would run fiberglass tape on the inside of the deck to reinforce the sheer area. Since the sheer clamp is below the stress point.

Darrells, You did a good job making the strips follow that tight of a curve. I really like the color scheme also.

JEM, Shouldn't the sides have come up higher :?: (Instead of the deck having to bend down and over the sides) This would have allowed for a smooth transition from the sides to the deck curve :!: :!:

Well the bottom is finished. :mrgreen: Finally got to start using my HVLP sprayer. I won't be brushing anymore. :D When it dries I will flip it over and attach the rub rails and begin the job of finish sanding the top. Finally getting closer to the end. :?:

That is a very interesting concept indeed. Presently working on the Millcreek and this build is on the back burner for now, but I am still interested in building it. Thanks for the info.

I was just reading an article on (amine blush). This is a quote from that article "This film is mostly water, one of the byproducts of the epoxy cure, and it's the very devil to stick paint or varnish to. You can wash it off, but the epoxy keeps curing, and blushing, for a long time." They...

Bottom is finish sanded and ready for primer.

The deck is a permanent part of the hull. Hatches are finished. Cockpit combing is finished. Deck has been glassed and 3 coats of epoxy applied. Next is finish sanding the outside of the bottom and paint.

Finally finished the inside. Added a middle set of seat cleats. Now the boat will handle better, weight distribution with a single paddler Next the deck permanently meets the bottom half. Complete hull

Ron, The foot print on this boat is basically the same as the Skinny piroque you built. With one big difference. The first 2 side panels are on around 40 degrees. It is 21" flat bottom and 33" beam. All the edges are rounded. It is a sleek design. I will take a picture of the bottom.