TV 15 32 Build

[oldbuffpilot]

My TV 15 32 is nearing completion, so now it’s time to remember how to post pictures. This build is mainly to gain stitch and glue experience, before I committed to a SS&G project. I realize this is old hat to many of you, but maybe someone besides me can learn from the experience. If you experienced builders see something that I should have done different or easier please let me know, that’s also part of the reason for the post. Thanks for taking the time to share your post and ideas, they have been invaluable.

Panel cut out was straight forward. Matt’s butt joint tutorial is right on and much nicer than doing my old way of both sides at once.
This shows how I made the stitching spacers, my first real (only) problem was getting spacers to stay at the proper angle in the joint. After I posted some questions I realized that some of you don’t use spacers. So I accepted some that were turned at wrong angles, can’t tell the difference now.











On the advice of several of you I glassed the outside in two sections, which worked great. I’ve always used 3.25 oz cloth before and like it well for light weight UJ’s. Again from reading post I decided to use 6 oz and discovered it’s easier to work with, uses a lot of resin, but appears much stronger.






9 degrees outside so the ends pour with the tumble homes installed presented a challenge. I decided the rope handle could go in CPVC. I did a test in scrap of plywood, the wood stated to crack with a lot of pressure but the joint held good










I took lessons from makenmend’s post to cut out deck support/bulkheads. I had planned on peaked decks and bulk heads, but decided on open supports for a flat deck: open for long fishing poles and flat for less wind signature. I think I will add a splash shield strip to help keep water out of the pirogue.








Had some indecision deciding how to do the in wales, finally settled on spacers. That was a bit of a challenge and time consuming. I tried lightening holes in the spacers, which made it more difficult that it should have been.




I thought I‘d share my method for fillets and glue joints, it works well for me. Small portion bags and small cups for a funnel all from Wal-Mart. I fill the bag by supporting in a hole in a solo cup. I also cut Popsicle sticks on the band saw and bevel the cut edge on the small belt sander and use them for smoothing fillets and cleaning up edges.







So far the decks have been pretty straight forward, the multipurpose tool worked good for flush trimming.







I still have quite a ways to go. I’ll try to keep up with the build post as I go. Resizing and inserting so many pictures was a challenge, I guess that confirms my geezer status! I’m really enthused about the TV 15 32, and the stitch and glue concept.
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge, It’s like having my own personal tutor!


Good Fish’n
Andy

 

[oldsparkey]

One mistake that I noticed and it is really one that needs to be corrected before you go any further with the build.
Your shop is to dang organized , nothing is messy it is all to neat :roll: and you actually have a place to sit down without tripping over a lot of stuff to get there and do that. Heck you even don't have stuff stacked in the chair or around it so you would not be able to locate it. Just to neat , it ain't right. :lol:

 

[Kayak Jack]

BUFF, end pours can easily be done with the boat horizontal. Use the thin cardboard from the back of a Big Chief tablet, and cut it in half crossways. Fold that in half, cut and fit it into the stem end. Form a Vee shaped cup with it, and tape it into place to hold thickened epoxy into the stem end.

After having regular epoxy leak out, I learned to use thickened epoxy first, to seal off the edge joints. Once those are sealed, you can then dump in odds an ends of remaining epoxy from work sessions.

When you build a kayak with a long deck fore and aft of the cockpit, you can attach a small pulley into the end pours. Tie on a foot long piece of rope, and bury their ends into the epoxy. After it's set up, rig a circular line running from the pulley back to the cockpit. Bind on a 3'-4' cord to wrap around the first piece of camping gear you stuff up under the decking, and haul it up in. It will get further into the stem end if you ram with a paddle blade as you are also pulling on the rope.

I had this rope long enough to reach the cockpit, and the ends be tied in a square knot. Similarly, a rope and pulley assembley serves the opposite end of the boat. Loop the second rope into the first one before tieing it off. That keeps them both within reach.

Some builders prefer to install bulkheads and hatches. This rig gives you an option for packing gear.

 

[texastom]

Thanks BUFF,

I've read most of the build threads here and on TKF and was able to learn some new tricks from you. I like the baggie idea and the lightning holes for the spacers. The boat looks great. Your SS&G will be another good one to watch.

 

[oldbuffpilot]

Thanks Jack. My perceived end pour problem was after the tumble home panels were on I couldn’t get to the top of the end to pour epoxy. I think next time I will do the end pour before stitching the tumble home. Thanks for the info about how to retrieve gear from under the longer decks. I haven’t float camped in years—but I will be in Texas in the winter and some of those area look pretty tempting.
Good Fish'n
Andy

 

[Kayak Jack]

I'll send you a private message.

 

[tx river rat]

I have started doing the ends different, now I carve a piece of wood to fit in the nose pretty loose then with thickened epoxy glue it in. This does a couple things , lighter ,and less high dollar epoxy.
Ron

 

[texastom]

Are end pours a requirement, or just a good idea?

 

[oldsparkey]

Are end pours a requirement, or just a good idea?

Both....... One good idea to help strengthen the ends of the boat. You could get by without them but think of the beating the bow and the stern take so a little extra strength in that area does not hurt anything. Plus the design of the boat has a lot to do with it.
I like to think of it like the guy who wears both suspenders and a belt , he does not take any chances about his pants falling down.

OK , Guy's your thoughts ????

Chuck.

 

[Kayak Jack]

It's wise to reinforce areas of high stress and/or high wear.
Buff Andy, check your "New Messages".

 

[oldbuffpilot]

I’ m calling the JEM TV 15 32 done. I’ll varnish or paint, add seat tracks and rod holders after I use it at few times and know more what I want.

I decided I was walking to many miles in my disorganized shop chasing down epoxy tools and supplies. This Harbor Freight cart was just full of junk so I put it to good use.


Since this first S &G was to gain experience I experimented some. The glass overlap seams were hard to keep from showing so I tried making the overlaps a straight seam. Matt has this Packing tape method in the lake cruiser plans. Mark a line where you want the overlap seam, and put packing tape along the line, add some more tape below that to catch runs and drips.Glass over the tape line. After the glass cures, sand along the line and the glass over the packing tape comes off leaving a straight thin line. Clean up with acetone and sand, the lap disappears. Not quite that easy the first time, but it worked real well and I probably will use the method again.






I used “frog tape” sealed down tight to mask the graphite and for the first time didn’t have any black leaks or seeps thru the tape.



I added a small “splash shield” with a reinforcement lip to the decks. May keep the rain from running down the decks, but probably could have been taller.


DONE! Weighs 43 pounds. I was surprised and pleased that I could put it on the ladder rack easily. Inside 3.25 oz tight weave, outside 6 oz cloth double on wear points and most of the bottom. 5.2 mm Luan. The Luan and probably 3.25 cloth may not have been a good idea. Time will tell. This build was a great experience and lots of fun. Thanks for all your advice.



Next up the TV 12 32 recently received drawing from Matt. My plan is SS&G.I think it will make a good truck boat for when the 15 32 is too big. I’ll be looking for more advice shortly.

Good Fish’n
Andy

 

[Kayak Jack]

Andy, you're going to feel,really good out there, paddling a boat that you built. For the next one, get your Grandkids involved. It isn't building a boat with a kid - it's actually building a kid with a boat. You'll see smiles galore, and feel really warm inside. And, the kids can get all messy with grandpa's help.

 

[FlaMike]

OBP, you done real goood!

For certain, a boat to be proud of. And you have to know by now, each build (there will always be another) will be better than the last one. Good for you!

Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL

 

[Kayak Jack]

I sometimes found myself having built a boat that was adapted to (A) the kind of paddling I'd been doing, but then was doing less. Or, (B) paddling I thought I'd like to do, but ended up not doing sll that much.

Still, they are nice boats, I like them, and have good times in them. A boat, somewhat like any other piece of gear, should be convenient, easy to use. IE: it's probably better to have a boat right there with you because it's easy to use, than to not have the perfect boat with you at all.