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The Cajun secret

MS Duck Calls

Member
Jul 10, 2022
20
4
37
Hey guys. I recently purchased a set of plans from the Cajun secret. I purchased them about 2 weeks ago via PayPal. It said you could download them pdf or have them sent to your door for 5 dollars extra. I chose to get them sent to my door. I got a receipt from PayPal. However I haven’t received a confirmation or a shipping verification. I have emailed a couple of times but have not got a response. Does anyone in here know if there is another way to get in touch with him. Thank you hope y’all have a great day
 

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,838
52
Welcome to the forum.
Try messaging PodnasUnlimited on this site. I think he has built one and may could help.
 

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,838
52
Site said 3-5 working days. On line business, July 4th. holiday, and the mail service today, how many real days is that? Hope you get them soon. I'm looking forward to your build. I have always liked the looks of their pirogue.
Where do you like to hunt, marsh, swamp or creeks?
 
Apr 23, 2020
12
1
35
Got and responded to your message MS Duck Calls but I'm going to post here as well. The Cajun Secret people were very responsive at first but then stopped replying after my 3 or 4th email. I'm not sure what happened. Worst case scenario, you should get the digital file too. You can have a local FedEx, UPS, Kinkos print the plans (and even bind). I also highly recommend saving all receipts if you ever want to register the boat. In the state of Louisiana, you need to have numbers for your boat if you want to use it with a motor (even an electric trolling motor). You have to have proof that you bought the supplies/paid taxes, didn't steal it, etc to get it registered. Homemade boats also require in inspection in Louisiana. I haven't accomplished this step because LDWF headquarters in Baton Rouge was practically shut down during covid. Good luck with everything and if you have any questions about the build, I'd be happy to share my experiences.
 

MS Duck Calls

Member
Jul 10, 2022
20
4
37
Thank you very much. I will be sure to save everything and thank u for the advice. I am looking forward to this build. Myself and my 2 daughters are gonna build it.
 

MS Duck Calls

Member
Jul 10, 2022
20
4
37
Got and responded to your message MS Duck Calls but I'm going to post here as well. The Cajun Secret people were very responsive at first but then stopped replying after my 3 or 4th email. I'm not sure what happened. Worst case scenario, you should get the digital file too. You can have a local FedEx, UPS, Kinkos print the plans (and even bind). I also highly recommend saving all receipts if you ever want to register the boat. In the state of Louisiana, you need to have numbers for your boat if you want to use it with a motor (even an electric trolling motor). You have to have proof that you bought the supplies/paid taxes, didn't steal it, etc to get it registered. Homemade boats also require in inspection in Louisiana. I haven't accomplished this step because LDWF headquarters in Baton Rouge was practically shut down during covid. Good luck with everything and if you have any questions about the build, I'd be happy to share my experiences.
I am very curious to how much this build will be helpful during duck season. We hunt a lot of sloughs and flooded timber. I think it will be nice as a sneak boat
 

MS Duck Calls

Member
Jul 10, 2022
20
4
37
Hey guys ATTENTION. just got a email from Cajun secret. He said they had been redoing their website and they have a few hiccups they are still trying to work out. However everything is great and one the way. He even sent a download file as well. I told him he did not have to do that. Seems like a awesome guy and great customer service. So if any one is in the market for the plans hit him up. Thank you to beekeeper and Podnus for the help guys really appreciate y’all
 
Apr 23, 2020
12
1
35
Glad to hear everything worked out. When I interacted with them during my build, they were very helpful. Just a couple notes my build...
  • marine grade plywood (I used okoume) was hard to find and expensive. You could use other, more readily available wood as long as it doesn't have voids, but the okoume was solid and light
  • I used relief cuts and two strips of laminated wood (versus one solid piece) to make the chine logs bend near the bow/stern stem
  • I did not make walking plank/runner boards and kept the inside floor bare. It flexes a little in the water but has held up fine. I applied hydroturf to the whole bottom last year to make it quiet and slip resistant. You'll see a lot of pirogue designs with cross beam supports but my boat has held up well without such reinforcement
  • I followed the seat design from the plans but after a few months the seat boards kept popping out so I cut off the seat holders and just made removable seat benches. I was able to attach a strap-on canoe seat with padding and back and its awesome
  • I cut 3-4 in wide strips of fiberglass and glassed the seams around where the bottom attaches to the sidewalls along with the skegs and stems before painting. I ended up having to go back an re-glass some spots where it leaked after a year or so. It wouldnt be a bad idea to sand the first layer of glass and then do a second, overlapping layer. I don't think you need to glass the entire bottom but at least the seams would be good. You can opt out of glassing but you may end up needing to fill small pinhole voids with epoxy later on.
  • Duralux Pirogue green paint on Amazon worked great. I left the skegs, gunwales, breasthook, and stems natural (yellow cypress) and applied several layers of epoxy to protect those.
  • I didn't use half-round to make the gunwales, but that would have been simpler. My friend that's a carpenter (he built a pirogue at the same time and held my hand the entire time) wanted to make a gunwale like a canoe would have with spacers and drainage slots. It was more tedious but it made for great handles and tie off points
  • Attached eyelets to the inside of the bow and stern stems for tie-off points
  • Made an elevated floor about 1.5' long and 2" high on the back of the boat. This is great for putting your stuff you dont want to get wet. We also filled the void with expanding spray foam. In hindsight, I wish I had that raised floor on both ends of the boat
  • Installed an yackattack anchor trolley to use with a stake out pole or anchor to hold the boat in one spot while fishing
  • Just purchased a yakgear duck blind cover (https://www.yakgear.com/product/yakgear-ambush-camo-kayak-cover-and-hunting-blind/) and it fits perfect
  • I have a quart of "gator glide" for the bottom when I repaint in the next year or so
Sorry for all the excess of info but I'm excited you got your plans and good luck with the build.
 
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beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,838
52
The design should work well in the flooded timber and sloughs. Not sure of the dimensions, but the boat appears to have some rocker and will be well suited for easing between and around trees.
 

MS Duck Calls

Member
Jul 10, 2022
20
4
37
Glad to hear everything worked out. When I interacted with them during my build, they were very helpful. Just a couple notes my build...
  • marine grade plywood (I used okoume) was hard to find and expensive. You could use other, more readily available wood as long as it doesn't have voids, but the okoume was solid and light
  • I used relief cuts and two strips of laminated wood (versus one solid piece) to make the chine logs bend near the bow/stern stem
  • I did not make walking plank/runner boards and kept the inside floor bare. It flexes a little in the water but has held up fine. I applied hydroturf to the whole bottom last year to make it quiet and slip resistant. You'll see a lot of pirogue designs with cross beam supports but my boat has held up well without such reinforcement
  • I followed the seat design from the plans but after a few months the seat boards kept popping out so I cut off the seat holders and just made removable seat benches. I was able to attach a strap-on canoe seat with padding and back and its awesome
  • I cut 3-4 in wide strips of fiberglass and glassed the seams around where the bottom attaches to the sidewalls along with the skegs and stems before painting. I ended up having to go back an re-glass some spots where it leaked after a year or so. It wouldnt be a bad idea to sand the first layer of glass and then do a second, overlapping layer. I don't think you need to glass the entire bottom but at least the seams would be good. You can opt out of glassing but you may end up needing to fill small pinhole voids with epoxy later on.
  • Duralux Pirogue green paint on Amazon worked great. I left the skegs, gunwales, breasthook, and stems natural (yellow cypress) and applied several layers of epoxy to protect those.
  • I didn't use half-round to make the gunwales, but that would have been simpler. My friend that's a carpenter (he built a pirogue at the same time and held my hand the entire time) wanted to make a gunwale like a canoe would have with spacers and drainage slots. It was more tedious but it made for great handles and tie off points
  • Attached eyelets to the inside of the bow and stern stems for tie-off points
  • Made an elevated floor about 1.5' long and 2" high on the back of the boat. This is great for putting your stuff you dont want to get wet. We also filled the void with expanding spray foam. In hindsight, I wish I had that raised floor on both ends of the boat
  • Installed an yackattack anchor trolley to use with a stake out pole or anchor to hold the boat in one spot while fishing
  • Just purchased a yakgear duck blind cover (https://www.yakgear.com/product/yakgear-ambush-camo-kayak-cover-and-hunting-blind/) and it fits perfect
  • I have a quart of "gator glide" for the bottom when I repaint in the next year or so
Sorry for all the excess of info but I'm excited you got your plans and good luck with the build.
Man thank u so much for all the help. Man you went above and beyond. All the info you shared is very very helpful bro. This sight is very awesome and I am glad I came across this group. I hope to be starting on mine next week and I will post some pics along the way. Also. I have some cypress planks that are around 5/8 thick and around 16 feet long. They very from 23 to 28 inches wide but the do have some knots in them. Not a lot but some. Will this wood be ok to use
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gamecock

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,838
52
Glad to hear everything worked out. When I interacted with them during my build, they were very helpful. Just a couple notes my build...
  • marine grade plywood (I used okoume) was hard to find and expensive. You could use other, more readily available wood as long as it doesn't have voids, but the okoume was solid and light
  • I used relief cuts and two strips of laminated wood (versus one solid piece) to make the chine logs bend near the bow/stern stem
  • I did not make walking plank/runner boards and kept the inside floor bare. It flexes a little in the water but has held up fine. I applied hydroturf to the whole bottom last year to make it quiet and slip resistant. You'll see a lot of pirogue designs with cross beam supports but my boat has held up well without such reinforcement
  • I followed the seat design from the plans but after a few months the seat boards kept popping out so I cut off the seat holders and just made removable seat benches. I was able to attach a strap-on canoe seat with padding and back and its awesome
  • I cut 3-4 in wide strips of fiberglass and glassed the seams around where the bottom attaches to the sidewalls along with the skegs and stems before painting. I ended up having to go back an re-glass some spots where it leaked after a year or so. It wouldnt be a bad idea to sand the first layer of glass and then do a second, overlapping layer. I don't think you need to glass the entire bottom but at least the seams would be good. You can opt out of glassing but you may end up needing to fill small pinhole voids with epoxy later on.
  • Duralux Pirogue green paint on Amazon worked great. I left the skegs, gunwales, breasthook, and stems natural (yellow cypress) and applied several layers of epoxy to protect those.
  • I didn't use half-round to make the gunwales, but that would have been simpler. My friend that's a carpenter (he built a pirogue at the same time and held my hand the entire time) wanted to make a gunwale like a canoe would have with spacers and drainage slots. It was more tedious but it made for great handles and tie off points
  • Attached eyelets to the inside of the bow and stern stems for tie-off points
  • Made an elevated floor about 1.5' long and 2" high on the back of the boat. This is great for putting your stuff you dont want to get wet. We also filled the void with expanding spray foam. In hindsight, I wish I had that raised floor on both ends of the boat
  • Installed an yackattack anchor trolley to use with a stake out pole or anchor to hold the boat in one spot while fishing
  • Just purchased a yakgear duck blind cover (https://www.yakgear.com/product/yakgear-ambush-camo-kayak-cover-and-hunting-blind/) and it fits perfect
  • I have a quart of "gator glide" for the bottom when I repaint in the next year or so
Sorry for all the excess of info but I'm excited you got your plans and good luck with the build.
Not to hijack Duck Calls post, but did you ever build the new boat you asked about some time back? I think you were looking for something to put small motor on and somewhat more stable than your pirogue.
 

beekeeper

Well-Known Member
Mar 4, 2009
1,838
52
I forgot you mentioned having cypress boards to use. The boat looks so robust compared to the plywood most boats are built from today. It has to be nice to work with real wood. The boat looks very nice and is coming along well. Looks like you have good help.