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Thanks for the weight info. LightER is what I want. Wanting a LIGHT boat, I would never start with two 25 + or - lbs sheets of plywood. It's mostly an itch I want to scratch. Minimizing (not eliminating ) glass and epoxy is my goal. Epoxy is some amazing stuff if used judiciously. 2...

45 vs 49 lbs IS a worthy enough goal in itself from my design standpoint. I think I'll save at least a couple of pounds. Anyway, I'm doing it partly for the ease of building and a little more freedom in the stem shapes and ...........just because. If I was practical, I'd just go buy a second...

Chuck, that would make a better boat, but I'm just not into the total fiberglass thing now. I want something a little simpler....and quicker.

I was just thinking. I might be kicked out of the pirogue club. Verticle stern......nope. Near verticle bow......nope. Mix of modern and traditional......nope. Double paddle and foot pegs......nope. I'll just call it a flat bottomed paddle craft. :D

Why the hybrid chine? Well, for simplicity and build speed. Chine logs equal not waiting endlessly for epoxy filets to cure, then sanding them, then covering with cloth, and sanding that, and fill coats of epoxy and MORE sanding. What little epoxy and glass I'll use can be done in a couple...

Probably not any major savings in weight. Subtract 4 pieces of chine log about 18" long, two stem pieces, two cutwaters and the glue and fasteners to hold them. Add back 4 fillets 18" long, two fillets for the stems and a little glass reenforcement. Maybe a pound in savings. But, a pound is...

It's been a year or two but it's time for another pirogue build. Initial thoughts are for an approx. 13ft fairly standard ply pirogue with a couple of new things. Y'all know I have to have new things! I'm thinking a verticle stern angle and a either rounded bow or more upright bow angle. In...

You're like me. I have to modify things, too. I don't think I've every bought anything sizable that I didn't modify for my needs. That's part of the fun.

No flower boxes here , Jack. I sell the boats before they get to that point. I did sell my aluminum pirogue experiment to a guy who said his wife wanted it for a flower box. I got my money and she got her flower box. Fair enough.

Bee, I would say a wider floor would need more cutout. The sides have a longer route to take to get to the stems......rising all the way. My go-to is always a 1/4 scale model. That will tell you all you need to know.

Re: cutback height. If I recall, seedtick and keith used to cut back almost 8" on 12 ft pirogues with approx. 30 degrees of flair. 6 1/2" may not be enough, but you can always cut it a bit higher if needed. The rest of the stuff I'll leave to beekeeper as he would be my go-to if I ever built...

Not even close, Jack. I love the IDEA of these boats, but I don't think I'd like to own one. The ultimate strength of this design hinges on every part doing its part. You get one broken piece and it's done.......like a new cardboard box. One crease and it's over.

Cool. I wondered how you acheived that.

It came out great, Bee. I like what you did on the stern. I don't think that will make much difference at all in the paddling dept.

Bee, it would be easy paddling..........downwind............ONLY! :D

Futher research finds 7 mph is a bit high. 1.5 to 3 mph is more realistic. Added on to the 3 mph current, a 3.5 mph kayak speed still makes for a heck of a day of paddling to approach 100 miles. I don't think I was EVER young enough to tackle a trip down Ole Muddy in a paddlecraft.

Yep, The Mississippi can be a dangerous place for a tiny boat.

Bee, you have to figure a current of as much as 7 mph added onto the kayak's cruising speed. Still, that's a heap of paddling.

Yeah, Chuck, two weeks..........at least.

It's the simple v groove on the left. The rope comes in over the gunnel on the right, goes under the grip and comes up through the v groove. A sharp tug to the right secures the rope. A tug to the left releases it. The handle is at the balance point. It''s a "three-fer"........ jam cleat...