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Bee, we didn't talk about the wood you're using for the i/2 scale model. Depending on the thickness, it probably won't bend the same as the full sized version. I'd say, for the rocker , just take off wood to get the rocker you want. Transferring that same curve to the full size boat might be...

A couple of key points. If you find yourself in 4' waves while in a pirogue, you've made some supremely silly decisions. Pirogues and most flat bottomed boats were never designed for rough water. Flat bottom= flat water. Horses for courses. When I went on Lake Verret in my pirogues, I got...

I little nugget I learned from building glass/wood longbows and all- wood selfbows. If you double the width of a board, you double the bending strength. Increasing the thickness, you increase the bending strength exponentially. If you double the thickness of a board, it has EIGHT times the...

Daddy used to say I asked so many questions when I was young.........many of them he couldn't answer. :D Cedar has been used in paddlecraft primariy with a epoxy/glass covering. Same principle.......heavy and strong glass used very thin so it's strong but still lighter than solid wood thick...

This just popped into my mind from something I learned years ago. We spent a week in Colonial Williamsburg and toured all of the trade shops. Something the wagon builder said just struck me as counter-intuitive. They made heavy, cargo carrying wagons as well as small, light personal wagons...

Yeah, I saw those videos. Mighty impressive.

One thing to think about too. The original kayaks were oiled skin covered. I don't know how that compares to modern fabrics, but I would think that was some pretty tough stuff. Leather is stil a very good choice for shoe soles that take incredible abuse.

Let's remember that skins on driftwood frames were used because ..........that's all they had . Most everywhere decent wood was available, it was used almost exclusively. SOF does have the advantages of light weight and relative building ease. It can make a useful boat, when used with it's...

I agree with the idea that flat bottoms have a lot of initial resistance to roll...........and that's what I'm after in my type of paddling. This boat will see almost zero wave action. I've been in rounded bottom boats and I have to agree on the predictable behavior......predictably skittish...

This really surprised me. I put my angle finder on a bunch of online kayak cross section diagrams from different manufacturers, both recreational and sea kayaks. The average flair of the sides from vertical was 13-15 degrees. The commercial canoes were even less than that. Now, I have been...

I miss it for the ease of paddling, for sure. It just seemed to go at a pace I liked. It was just a bit too long and cumbersome. Stability was good but the seat needed to be at a maximum of 4" high. It had a 22" bottom with only about 20 degrees of flair. I'll probably go with 22" bottom and...

Will do. Re: Flair. I've been noticing in canoe and kayak design information, that most don't have really much flair above the waterline. The most i"ve used is 25 degrees and a couple around 20 degrees. Can't say I saw much difference. I did have a good experience with a little 12 ft x...

Put another way, the lower a boat sits in the water, the lower the center of gravity and the higher you can mount your seat. I'm favoring a higher seat nowadays. It's a LONGER way up than it used to be. I've been doing some drawing and this boat is looking to be a shorter, less severe...

Thoghts on stability. I've built 3 boats with a 22" wide bottom and approx. 25 degree flair. No real problems with stability. They definitely weren't stand-up and dance boats, but plenty stable enough for my use. I figure it this way. A boat with a 22" bottom sinks a little deeper in the...

Doing some rethinking. If I'm planning on doing some epoxy/glass work anyway, I might just go ahead and tape and epoxy all the hull joints. I definitely don't want to do a whole inside/outside glass job. Taping the bottom and stem joints is really not too bad. Time wise, it's probably close...

Neat idea.

The slightly less flair at the stems don't do much for stability either way. Their main job is to lengthen the waterline and have the added benefit of having a little sharper angle of attack in the water.

I doubt the finer intricacies of bow shape and stem angle make a heck of a lot of difference. Mostly, though, waterline length along with the width dictates the speed of the boat. There's really nothing you can do to 12-13 ft boat to make it the equal of a decent 16 footer. Bee, i think...

Bee, that's one of the reasons for using stitch and glue for the stems.......more flexibility where the bottom and stem meet. I'll be going with very little rocker so a little slope at the lower bow will help going over logs and such. Like it's been said, every boat is a compromise.

Just my take. Cover, food, water ......in that order. Deer will go a long way for food and water, but they need cover to live in an area. Trim back trees to open up the land so blackberries and other fast growing plants establish themselves. Plant food plots......long and narrow are the best...