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The bottom rib is reattached and the side ribs are in....... 2 feet behind center. I'm thinking that should be strong enough. We'll see. No big thing to add another rib if needed. Probably needed more sanding but just didn't want to spend an extra hour. As I age, the need for impeccable fit...

Yes, the rib is 8 feet from the bow. I should have put a couple of side ribs there too. I sat about a foot forward of the rib and a foot behind center. I'll glue the floor rib and the side ribs in maybe tomorrow. One step forward and two steps back. Fun stuff!!

The TV 15 32 should be a great fishing platform. Bigger is better up to a point. Every builder has to figure that point for himself. It's a juggling act of cost, ease of build, speed, handling, comfort, ease of getting it to and from the water and a whole host of other things. There might be...

Launch day......the good and the bad. Getting in was a little shakey, which I expected. I don't have a seat with a back, so I just sat on 2 pieces of 2" foam and another piece of camping foam about 3/4" thick. After a couple hundred yards of paddling, I took out the 3/4" piece. Much better...

I didn't really measure it accurately, but I believe the rocker decreased maybe a 1/4" to 3/8". Small differences like that don't bother me in the least, though. Bee, tomorrow is launch day! I'll post a report.

She's officially finished. Two coats inside and out with a semi-gloss latex paint. Final specs: length- 11'8" , bottom width- 23 1/2" , overall beam- 30 1/2", waterline length- 11'6", depth of sweep of sheer line- 3 3/4", height at stems-12", height at midships- 8 5/8", rocker (...

I just finished nailing on the gunnels and puttying up the ends where the chines didn't quite meet the stems. Tomorrow I'll put a couple of thicknesses of glass over the exterior stem ends and figure out something for some minimal breasthooks.

Well, I don't rightly know. I sold the boat after just a couple of months. I did find that it stained more than a slick varnish finish, but seemed to keep the water from sinking in. Someone accustomed to seeing a slick varnished finish might not be happy with it.

The bottom is on , trimmed and sanded flush. The gunnels are scarfed and drying. I weighed the hull with no gunnels but with the center form.........37 lbs. 41-42 lbs finished maybe???? This one is definitely paint grade. I've been doing a little research and more and more people are...

I put the chine logs in after bending the sides. I find it a little easier because of the amount you have to bend them around the reverse chine curve. Putting them in after bending the sides holds them in place better and I can clamp them and nail them. I left about an inch and a half of...

Chines are on. I plane the chines down flat and probably the bottom goes on tomorrow. Next pirogue I'll do away with the fiberglass patches for the sides and bottom joints and just go with plywood patches glued with Titebond. I forgot about the waiting and the cleanup and the sanding when...

I put the boat up on the center form and epoxied up the stems between the wires. Now that I'm into it, I don't think I gained very much in speed or ease of build doing the hybrid build. Oh well, it was an itch I had to scratch. I took the whole contraption out on a flat section of driveway to...

Bee, that's why I build the way I do. I can change just about any line, sweep, rocker or width at almost any time until I nail the bottom on. I like to build to a certain look rather than a certain number. I know from experience, what that look will give me in performance and stability.

Bee, that 3" or so sweep in the sheer line is pretty much automatic when you flair the sides out 25-30 degrees. The sheer line is completely straight before I put the sides on the form. The sides go out and down and the stems come up. The reverse chine cut just takes care of the rocker...

He's a fantastic carpenter and he knows how to get what he wants out of a log, too.

I spread the sides temporarily on the form to check the lines. Wasn't feeling it. I ripped another inch or so off of the sheer line and planed a smidge more off of the reverse chine cut. Much better to my eye. Depth at stems - 12"...........depth at midships - 8 5/8" . I also put a spacer...

I'd say all of those probably work. It really depends on how you use the boat. If it stays outside or in the water, some ways work better. If you don't mind a little bailing of little water now and then, close fitted, non glued joints will work. I'm sure all of us here had a bailing can in...

13" at stems and about 9" at midships. I'll may take a bit off of the top of the stems and plane the sheer line down a bit. The pine ply is pretty splintery and needs some dressing down. I flipped the sides and applied a glass patch over the joints and the second patch over the bottom...

I would recommend against marine ply, especially fir marine ply. Fir is heavy and splits like the dickens. I've built a few pirogues with sanded pine ply from Lowes. Works better than fir. Plenty resistant to rot and water intrusion. The highest I've paid ( just a couple days ago ) was...

Oh, I made the executive decision to shorten it a bit. I cut the sides 12' long. Finished boat should be about 11' 8 and about 24" wide with about a scant 1" rocker. Lots of "abouts" in my boats. :D