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Nice! :) The near vertical stems gives the boat a canoe boat look. They also give you a longer water line. Waiting on paint to dry so you can paddle it is the pits. I bet it works fine.

If you do not want to want another "addiction" (paddle making) you could modify a cheap store bought one. Cut the grip off and then attach a new "grip"/end shaped to extend over your arm more. This video shows a couple of paddles made with grips attached to one side . Check out the video at...

Did you put the chine logs in after bending the sides and gluing up the stems? Do they go all the way to the stems or do you blend those together with more epoxy?

True and it looks nice, but if you need the midships height increased then the stem height becomes too high. If you lower the stem heights the sheer line sweep becomes less pronounced. Boats with near vertical sides and little or no ark cut from the chine look different. Because the width of...

Today I looked at my model and a full size pattern I have. Both indicated about a 3" + or - a little difference between the midships height ( width of side panel) and the height at the stems. This seems to produce a sheer line that I think of as traditional Cajun pirogue look. I'm not sure...

To justify the time spent watching, just think of it as a virtual boat building class. Nothing more productive than pursuing a higher education.:rolleyes:

We need seedtick our plank builder to wade in on your questions. I have only built two pirogues that could be considered plank constructed. Both were painted and had glued joints. Both have been used lightly (maybe 3 to 5 times per year) and are reasonably stored when not in use. In that...

Just heard from Jack. He is fine. He has been having difficulties logging onto the forum.

How high (width of the side panels) at the stems, and mid ship?

Questions: What are your priorities and goals? Do you want to build a "plank" boat? Does it have to use just tight joints an cotton thread or would glued joints be OK for you? How heavy is too heavy for your usage? Do you only want a plank bottom or the whole boat? Food for thought. 3/4"...

Rushed my post this AM. These are food for thought, not the final answers. Plank thickness would be influenced by floor width, how many ribs and their spacing, species of wood used, load, and usage of the boat. Most cypress plank pirogues I have seen used 3/4" planks, at least in the bottom...

Welcome to the board. Food for thought. 10' long X 22" floor X 28" beam give or take. Any normal weight once in the water will be easy enough to handle. In general plank construction will not equal light. Tightbond 111 works for me and is not toxic. For traditional plank building techniques...

Joey got me hooked on this some time back. Warning: If you like boat building these videos are hard to stop watching. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=shipwright+louis+sauzedde

I was not trying to steer you to glassing. Mostly wondering if the glass would stiffen it as much as ribs. I think it would help with the flexing of the plywood more than it would with the stiffness at the sheer line. Ribs, or gunnels, or tumblehome panels would probably work better for that.

If you filet and tape the chines but think the the boat still needs ribs would glassing over the outside add as much strength/stiffness as the ribs? Since you are already invested in the resign and glass, doing the outside may not be any harder than fitting a couple ribs.

I have a model on my work table that is very similar to yours. It is based on my last boat, the square stern pirogue built for my son. Yours will be a little narrower and his is tumblehomed to increase the side depth. If I use the model to build for me I will increase the length 8" to 12"...

Looking good. I like the near vertical stems. They give the water line a little more length per over all boat's length, but it is harder to get the sheer line to conform to a point. That is probably what gave you the "wonky" look. Probably will not be an issue full size. Thinner plywood...

Easy project for cold days and scrap wood. I would probably make more but there isn't much interest in old school tools.

I recently made a wooden mallet for a gift. I liked it and then got carried away. There was enough left over wood for a cutting board.

One possibility would to cut the grip off, turn the shaft round on the end, then bore a hole into a dowel to make a T grip. It could be made as long as you needed it and it could even be asymmetrical if that would help. If you didn't use glue it could be changed out until you figured out what...